removing lca

[Supercharged111]

Come to think of it, I had to maneuver the diff on my 3500. Never monkeyed with the 1500 on that.

 

[eran tomer]

It’s a 95 2500hd suburban.

 

[eran tomer]

WHAT VEHICLE?

I pulled the lower control arms off of two K1500s, my '88 and the Treasure Yard truck which was a few years newer--perhaps '92.

I had no problems getting the bolts past the CV flange on the output shafts of the front differential. OTOH, I had zero success getting the torsion bars out of the control arms.

Had to cut the torsion bars to remove the lower arms from the parts truck.

i hit on the torsion bars from behind, through the hole, then when they started moving i went on with a scisor jack put against the crossmember and a socket through the hole.

 

[Supercharged111]

i hit on the torsion bars from behind, through the hole, then when they started moving i went on with a scisor jack put against the crossmember and a socket through the hole.

I promise that truck is waaay cleaner than what Schurkey was dealing with.

 

[eran tomer]

I promise that truck is waaay cleaner than what Schurkey was dealing with.

10 previous owners left me a scorched earth...

 

[eran tomer]

so i found a generic bolt exactly the same size and shape and grade as the gm bolt, just without the cone tip.

 

[eran tomer]

For those who replaced the lca bushings- would you crimp the front bushings? Gm book says to crimp only on k3 cars but my old ones were crimped on 3 spots.

 

[Supercharged111]

Crimp what exactly?

 

[Schurkey]

Crimp what exactly?

The new outer shells of the replacement rubber bushings.

One of several reasons that I use Polyurethane bushing inserts, is that I don't have to remove the original shells. No press or special tools needed, no requirement to re-crimp. I merely heat the shell with a propane torch, slide the original rubber and steel sleeve out of the shell, clean the inside of the original shell, and slide the new steel sleeve and Poly insert back in, with suitable grease of course.

I've seen more than one example of the GM service manual for my '97 C/K saying stuff about the 3500 (only) that should also apply to the 8-lug 2500. Mistakes were made in the editing of the manual. The manual for my '88 is significantly worse; they had to publish a "Service Manual Supplement" to correct most but not all of the screwups.

Yes, crimp the shells if the originals were crimped.

 

[454cid]

The new outer shells of the replacement rubber bushings.

One of several reasons that I use Polyurethane bushing inserts, is that I don't have to remove the original shells. No press or special tools needed, no requirement to re-crimp. I merely heat the shell with a propane torch, slide the original rubber and steel sleeve out of the shell, clean the inside of the original shell, and slide the new steel sleeve and Poly insert back in, with suitable grease of course.

I've seen more than one example of the GM service manual for my '97 C/K saying stuff about the 3500 (only) that should also apply to the 8-lug 2500. Mistakes were made in the editing of the manual. The manual for my '88 is significantly worse; they had to publish a "Service Manual Supplement" to correct most but not all of the screwups.

Yes, crimp the shells if the originals were crimped.

I'm not getting how/what gets crimped, either. They are pressed in place, but I wouldn't do anything that I would calling a "crimp"... unless "crimp" is being used instead of "press" due to a difference in language by the OP? He mentions three spots, which makes me think of staking. Driveshaft balancers are staked onto slip yokes, for instance.

Staking (manufacturing) - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org