Removing 7.4 Vortech from my 1999 K2500 suburban

[Erik the Awful]

Shoot, if there aren't any metal bits in the pan and it's not leaking, I'd be hard pressed not to just replace the cam, lifters, and pushrods and put it back together. That's a far sight cheaper than a rebuild.

 

[Supercharged111]

Mine ate a cam and I was shocked that the bearings didn't seem to have ingested any of that crap. Multiple pitted rollers on the lifters though.

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Pan wasn't full of crap either.

 

[Saab84mw]

Shoot, if there aren't any metal bits in the pan and it's not leaking, I'd be hard pressed not to just replace the cam, lifters, and pushrods and put it back together. That's a far sight cheaper than a rebuild.

Removed oil pan and this is what I found:

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[Aparke4]

Bearings/ Journals?

I have a 1996 k2500 with 270k unknown miles... nesxt Covid-19 Project might be a engine refresh! Thanks for this info on this thread!!

 

[BlastingBat998]

If that's what's in your oil pan id just replace the whole thing with the gm crate...

 

[L29Sub]

If that's what's in your oil pan id just replace the whole thing with the gm crate...

Agree. Or find a good, complete, running engine with good oil pressure. Do valve seals and go.
Crate long truck block would be ideal. These days machine work (such that it is) to restore a damaged block and sevice heads will cost as much as going crate. There are a lot of good 150k used complete engine still in trucks too. No one wants Suburbans. '96-'99 are the same. The electronics are not the same, but hard parts are.
The crate long block assumes that your FI system is in good condition.

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[Saab84mw]

Agree. Or find a good, complete, running engine with good oil pressure. Do valve seals and go.
Crate long truck block would be ideal. These days machine work (such that it is) to restore a damaged block and sevice heads will cost as much as going crate. There are a lot of good 150k used complete engine still in trucks too. No one wants Suburbans. '96-'99 are the same. The electronics are not the same, but hard parts are.
The crate long block assumes that your FI system is in good condition.

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Dropped it off yesterday at a local shop remember try to support your local as much as possible only 3 miles from my house and came highly recommended.
Cost was less than a crate engine trust me I have be researching for the last two years and this guy is working closely with me on this build. I told him what I was going to use a truck for and we went from there and I will get the engine I want just need to do a few more ECU tweaks do it after I get it in and running and broke in.

 

[BNielsen]

Maybe I should move opening mine up on the list...there's a mysterious tick that won't go away and I chalked it up to an exhaust leak...

 

[L29Sub]

Maybe I should move opening mine up on the list...there's a mysterious tick that won't go away and I chalked it up to an exhaust leak...

Could be a rocker arm bolt. They will back out. Starts off as a tick, gets gradually louder. Runs normally.
And I have a nice set of 7.4 Vortec stock exhaust manifolds if you find a need.

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[Supercharged111]

Could be a rocker arm bolt. They will back out. Starts off as a tick, gets gradually louder. Runs normally.
And I have a nice set of 7.4 Vortec stock exhaust manifolds if you find a need.

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Yep. Or in my case, could be a cam as they like to eat those as well. Pull the belts and see if the noise persists.