relocating pcm....

[98nightmare]

Bottom pick was when i had 18s but could clear 20s.. Hood wont close with em in these spots with the 22s.. The top pics were with trailer fenders to the bottom of the fenders lip where the hood rests.. You dont have to go that high, i did cause i like layen the frame side to side.. The wheels tuck in further when layed to one side.

 

[DRAGGIN95]

This is as far as mine would reach without modifying any wires... Comp just rests atop the windshild fluid container, and fuse block fits snug between the brake crap.. Welded the factory brake bracket to the trailer fender... But this is temp cause im relocating it all and ditching these style fenders... Had to do to fit 22s.

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And this is with modifying the factory brackets and mounting the fuse block to the trailer fender and the comp to the trucks fender using factory holes..

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Idunno if any of this would help but its what ive tried so far with trien to keep it simple.... Hope ya figure up something

I think where you have everything located since the 22 swap look's good!

 

[draggin95niss]

Ive gotta get sum hose an fittings an extend the washer line....an ive gotta move the harness....

 

[98nightmare]

Thanks bro!
The washer line should be just long enough that you can run it thru the fender..
Most everyone moves the harness up and over twards the brake booster... IMO if you cut around the factory hole close to the bottom of it.. close to the right side of it, and come twards the brake booster a couple inches and also a couple inches above it.. youll have a rectangle cut out resulting in the factory hole being in the bottom right corner, simply turn the cutout and the factory hole will now be in the top left corner. Tac it in slow or itll warp your cutout causing bigger gaps to weld up.

 

[98nightmare]

If you plan to just lay frame on the 22s later, you may also wanna go ahead and either tub the firewall or remove the wheels and drink a few beers and have at the firewall with a big *** hammer.. If you run a 35 profile tire, that point on the firewall where the firewall comes straight down, then turns in twards the bottom of the cab (wheel well area).... That Point, will rest on the tire causing you to be a good inch and a half from laying out. Dont need much, mainly just remove that pointed area back about two or three inches. Youll be fine then.

 

[addiction2bass]

subed for more pics
im looking towards doing this this summer or fall sometime. the brackets ive seen LOOK like they made a bracket off the master cylinder to position computer and such inline with it. but i dont know if they still have abs or not. i just know i want to keep everything functional cause its my daily driver!

 

[98nightmare]

The ABS is mounted to a metal plate, just cut off the top curved pieces of it and run a bar from firewall to core support. weld on some tabs at the ends to make it removable.. drill a couple hole in the top of the ABS plate and bolt it to the bar, make some plates for the comp and fuse block and bolt them on too.. Or weld the plates to the bar? Something like you did for your valves... I was gonna do this myself but seen on FB a guy just moved it all in the cab, so ima try it. Looked pretty clean.

 

[98nightmare]

Found a pic,

My-T Johnson's truck.. (FB name)...

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[addiction2bass]

looks good with it moved inside but well atleast for me no way to fit it inside the cab under dash. i got so much extra electronics under the dash i cannt fit to much more.LOL i got my dads 96burb to do some test fitting on while making a bracket since his front end is off. its pretty much same thing but i dont know where the abs module is for that truck right now so that ill have to wing it. i see your picture the guy removed it.i think it should just be able to be rolled vertical and mounted inline with the frame... well i hope so.LOL

 

[draggin95niss]

does the hood springs have to go away?