skylark
I'm Awesome
Also don't forget that ground wire at the back of the passenger head.
pulling a blown engine from 89 GMC 2500 with the 350
- Thread starter 2boys1truck
- Start date
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Doh! Yeah, if you have manual it's easier than the auto - except for trying to stab straight into the pilot bushing.
If it's an auto, leave the torque converter in place on the transmission. If you take it off for any reason, make sure you get all three clunks when you reinstall it.
If it's an auto, leave the torque converter in place on the transmission. If you take it off for any reason, make sure you get all three clunks when you reinstall it.
I just took the engine out of a 95 3/4 4x4 Saturday. Every Chevy engine I have removed without taking the transmission out has required a 2x4 and jack under the trans pan. Take the 3 converter to flexplate bolts out and push the converter back toward the tranny about 1/4". Remove the top 2 bellhousing bolts form underhood. I pull the cap but not the distributor on 400 series trucks.
Put the floor jack under the trans and remove the last 4 bellhousing bolts. Remove the two motor mount bolts. They will come out easy with the weight on them, if not you may have a bad mount. Use you hoist to lift the motor from above. You will need to take the floor jack up also as the engine and trans go up. The trans bellhousing will need to be touching the floor at the firewall. This will get you high enough for the clamshell motor mounts to clear so you can come forward. Without the bellhousing against the floor you will not get the height and angle to clear the front mounts. (If you have a body lift you might)
Wiggle the engine to free it from the dowel pins at the bell housing. (you should have already measured to see if your hoist goes high enough to clear the rad support. Mine did without removing tires or letting air out.) because the bell housing is up against the floor, the converter will not fall out unless you move the truck. I rigged some flat stock to bolt to one bellhousing hole to hold the converter in and a chain to hold tranny up. Remove the floor jack and you can push the truck outside.
Put the floor jack under the trans and remove the last 4 bellhousing bolts. Remove the two motor mount bolts. They will come out easy with the weight on them, if not you may have a bad mount. Use you hoist to lift the motor from above. You will need to take the floor jack up also as the engine and trans go up. The trans bellhousing will need to be touching the floor at the firewall. This will get you high enough for the clamshell motor mounts to clear so you can come forward. Without the bellhousing against the floor you will not get the height and angle to clear the front mounts. (If you have a body lift you might)
Wiggle the engine to free it from the dowel pins at the bell housing. (you should have already measured to see if your hoist goes high enough to clear the rad support. Mine did without removing tires or letting air out.) because the bell housing is up against the floor, the converter will not fall out unless you move the truck. I rigged some flat stock to bolt to one bellhousing hole to hold the converter in and a chain to hold tranny up. Remove the floor jack and you can push the truck outside.
skylark
I'm Awesome
I use a 4x4 under the transmission pan with a ratchet strap. I also run a piece of wire through the bell housing holes across the front of the torque converter to keep it from sliding out.
I've used wire also, but it will allow the converter to come forward a little and out of the pump. Not a problem as long as you remember to reseat the converter into the front pump. My strap held the converter all the way back.
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