Possible replacement for Hot Fuel Module

[evilunclegrimace]

I think that I have one of those in the shop out of my '88 K3500. I will go have a look see.

 

[evilunclegrimace]

Yup I got one 1005293. I took it out of my '88 k3500 in 1989.

 

[92Landyacht]

First, how the hell are you smart enough to make this. Second, what do you charge for it? Mine just smoked and I can see a little crispy transistor thing inside it. Also a melted spot on the outside if you look close you can see it.

Edit: I pm'd you

I responded to your PM. The price for the module with a generic housing would be $50. You can purchase just the replacement board for $40 for being the first one on this forum to trust me. In most cases the original housing can be reused without any issues. The failed board usually self destructs but the mating connector and wiring usually survives without any damage. The difference between the OEM board and the replacement I designed is:

1: the switch to the fuel pump is through a relay connection and not a transistor.

2: The voltage loss though the module is in the millivolts range instead of a volt or more through the OEM. This provides more drive voltage to the fuel pump during prime.

3: The timing can be changed from 12 seconds to 20 seconds depending on a jumper.

4: The timing is derived through a micro controller.

The fried transistor is the most common failure of the OEM module. In many cases the transistor ends up being a short and will drive voltage to the fuel pump anytime the ignition switch is turned to ON. Since it parallels the ECU and fuel pump relay it doesn't effect performance unless the key is left on without the engine running. It will fry the fuel pump over time due to low voltage being supplied to the pump through the failed module. The failed modules have also been known to go up in flame. It's rare but it can happen.

 

[92Landyacht]

For those that needed a complete assembly with housing and connector, I've been able to source the connector that connects to the main harness and revised the board for a more direct wire connection. Here's an image of the new board layout without the OEM edge connector:

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With these I can now supply a complete module in a generic housing, 16 gauge wire pigtail and Delphi connector. I'll assemble one as soon as I get the board back from the fab shop and post a pic of the completed assembly. Any suggestions on the length of the pigtail needed? The OEM length was about 8 inches but don't know if a longer or shorter length would be better.

 

[Yamaben]

I'm interested, I was just trying to figure out how to fix this and came across this thread!!!

I got one from him and it works good

 

[snagaduck]

Do you know what years utilized this board? Did they fix it in later setups? I was just curious. I'm working on my 2000 K3500 7.4L and I was intrigued by your upgrade over factory.