Plus Sized Grandpa

[Supercharged111]

Actually there are. There's early stamped where the lower balljoint is riveted in. Next came stamped arms with forged ends, ball joints are pressed into these arms. 99-00 or thereabouts got the all forged arms, the 99 dually that I junked had them.

 

[phatphuck]

Actually there are. There's early stamped where the lower balljoint is riveted in. Next came stamped arms with forged ends, ball joints are pressed into these arms. 99-00 or thereabouts got the all forged arms, the 99 dually that I junked had them.

So which are the "cast" arms then?

Mine look like they have casting marks to me. I'm no expert on manufacturing this stuff by any means however.

Also, the arms shown in the pirate4x4 install of the TC kit I bought appear to be identical to the arms on my late model k2500. And his was a 97 truck.

If my ccsb was a late 98 build are you saying they had a different front end from the other 3/4 and 1 ton trucks from the year before?

What would be the calculation for design changes for a transitional model year?

You're making me worry haha! I talked to TC before purchase and they said they label their lifts as being for 88-97 only because there was too much confusion marketing them for applying to the transition year obs models as well and the rc/ec NBS models in 98-2000.

That was the only reason proffered. Not design/install issues.

 

[phatphuck]

See what I mean about the misnomer?...

Exact same pic of the two arm types. This one was from Rockymountainsusp.com

Clearly shows this as a cast arm.

Lucy never 'splained this **** over the years. How is that possible on 20yo trucks? Lol

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[Supercharged111]

The arms would have been the only difference. I can't remember where I saw it, but some piece of literature seemed to indicate that my 98 K1500 arms had the torsion bars slide in further inboard than on previous years. Worst case, buy older arms for the truck?

 

[Supercharged111]

That cast arm looks like a GMT800 arm. Maybe they're trying to prevent confusion because in 99-00 the 2 body styles coexisted.

 

[phatphuck]

That cast arm looks like a GMT800 arm. Maybe they're trying to prevent confusion because in 99-00 the 2 body styles coexisted.

All I can say to that is the cast and forged arms labeled and pictured in those two pics look identical to the arms on my ccsb 1999.

Also I believe the NBS lca 99-00 was different as their lifts do not work between body styles. I believe they had a new design for those arms. Certainly for the UCAs and spindles.

****. I guess time will tell on this one... give me a week and I'll let you know.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

Just made my way through your thread, lots of progress in a couple of months! Nice work!

GM 4WD's have had an offset wheel track for as long as I can remember...claim is extra bite in un-touched ground. I've also heard they used off-the-shelf-axles instead of correct width to save $$. Choose whatever camp you want to believe.

Glad to see you went with green/yellow antifreeze instead of the Dexcool they came with, that stuff is straight garbage.

I went with the steel spacers for my K2500 Suburban...same company, but in the steel I think they call them Stahl. If you're not towing heavy loads, shouldn't make any difference, especially if they are torqued properly.

I may have missed it in the thread, but what is your intended purpose of the build? Just my own curiosity, and being nosy (haha), how does an import guy end up with a big block bruiser?

 

[phatphuck]

Just made my way through your thread, lots of progress in a couple of months! Nice work!

GM 4WD's have had an offset wheel track for as long as I can remember...claim is extra bite in un-touched ground. I've also heard they used off-the-shelf-axles instead of correct width to save $$. Choose whatever camp you want to believe.

Glad to see you went with green/yellow antifreeze instead of the Dexcool they came with, that stuff is straight garbage.

I went with the steel spacers for my K2500 Suburban...same company, but in the steel I think they call them Stahl. If you're not towing heavy loads, shouldn't make any difference, especially if they are torqued properly.

I may have missed it in the thread, but what is your intended purpose of the build? Just my own curiosity, and being nosy (haha), how does an import guy end up with a big block bruiser?

Thanks. It hasn't moved as quickly as I would like but it has already come a long way toward losing some of its years.

Was in the market for another vehicle. Wanted to get into a truck and not spend unreasonable money that new (and used) ones are. Wanted a 6' + bed and crew cab. Ive had smaller trucks before and the cabs and beds were never quite big enough. Didnt need the 3/4 ton by any means.. almost bought a 6.0 gmt800 1500HD which is probably a good truck. Was humoring LBZ Duramax's and 7.3 Powerstrokes for the value retention but definitely did not need that kind of tool.

Dug up a gmt400 ccsb rarity and always loved the cc in this truck so found one.

The intent is just an oem+ and some modernizing of the truck in look and function without getting too fancy.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

Fine pick, I'd love to have a CCSB also, maybe in a couple of years when I've got another kid or two out of the house!

If you haven't done the Savana/Express HVAC knobs, it's a great way to bring your control panel and light switch into the 21st century!

 

[phatphuck]

Fine pick, I'd love to have a CCSB also, maybe in a couple of years when I've got another kid or two out of the house!

If you haven't done the Savana/Express HVAC knobs, it's a great way to bring your control panel and light switch into the 21st century!

Yeah they are a great upgrade I agree. I also hacked something together for the headlight switch from a random set of aftermarket knobs I had laying around from an old project.

Eventually will get to head unit and sound but thats down the list a ways.

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