Odometer and trip not working

[kssilverado]

Hey guys, this is my first post on here. I just bought a 96 Silverado and the odometer has stopped and the trip is stuck on zeros. The motor has supposedly been rebuilt and the tranny has been too. Is it something that wasn't hooked up when going back together? Or some other problem? Never had this issue before so any help would be great. Thanks!

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[someotherguy]

If your speedometer is working, then the odometer/tripmeter should too, as they're fed off the same signal. So if the speedometer is working and the others aren't, it's possibly a physical problem inside the cluster.

The odometer is driven by an electric motor inside the cluster, and the tripmeter is fed off it by a little plastic driveshaft between them. The odometers almost never ever go bad, but tripmeters can be broken by resetting them while in motion (supposed to only do it while stopped.) The tripmeter might be preventing the odometer from working. It's not a big job to pull the cluster and separate them to see if the odometer will work again.

1995-up - remove the dash bezel (be careful prying it out that you don't damage the dash shell, or bump the hazard button with the bezel as it's easy to break, too.) Remove the screws holding the cluster in, and pull it out from the dash. Flip it over and you'll see there are 2 tabs on one end and 1 on the other, that you can release, then slip the cluster lens assembly off.

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Be careful to not touch the gauge face or needles if you can avoid it; the face is easily smudged and it can be tricky to get it clean again without leaving marks, lint, etc. you'll notice later once it's all back together.

Using a door panel tool, putty knife, etc. gently pry all around the edge of the gauge face. Note that it's a black sticker on top of clear plexi; be sure you're prying between the cluster housing and the plexi. Work all the way around it and you'll be able to lift the gauge face away from the housing.

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Note the odometer/tripmeter assembly is held to the back of the face with a few screws, and connected to the circuit board with a single ribbon cable. Pop that cable out and remove the screws, then you should be able to separate the tripmeter for your test. Note in this example the piece connecting the two is the red plastic. Your color may vary.

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Richard

 

[kssilverado]

Sweet. Thank you for the info! If the trip meter is the problem will I be able to fix it or have to get a new one?

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[95Escahoe]

If you can't fix it there is place in CT you can send your cluster to and they will fix what is wrong and check the rest over

 

[someotherguy]

Sweet. Thank you for the info! If the trip meter is the problem will I be able to fix it or have to get a new one?

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Just grab another. Will be the same in any 95-98 (and 99 classic) cluster. Easiest thing is just swap that one piece into your existing cluster. Your run-of-the-mill cluster for one of those trucks shouldn't cost you more than $50, even less at a self-service boneyard if you're lucky.

Or, just leave that little connecting piece out and have an inop trip meter. Won't hurt anything. Unless you really want it working. Of course, all this is assuming that's what the problem is.

Richard

 

[kssilverado]

All the clusters I found online are closer to $80. No self service boneyards around my area. Could call LKQ and see if they have anything if I need to. Will have to tear it apart this week sometime or maybe this weekend and see what I'm working with. Would really like to have my trip meter working..

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