OBD1 codes 33, 34, 45.... and more great news....

[Erik the Awful]

Ever see stars in the daytime? Unreal pain!@#$ The neighbors probably heard me scream a mile away. When stuff like this happens, it means STOP for the night.

Yes, I have, and I agree, if you can stop for the night, it's time to stop. If you have to drive it in the morning, suck it up and press on. I hope your shin is healing well.

I took a loss selling my Jeep when the market was down, but I think I dodged a bullet selling it when I did.

 

[DeCaff2007]

Yeah same thing with the Oldsmobile station wagon we've had for sale for weeks now. Sweat equity means nothing. We have $3000+ into that car. It's worth $6K as it sits. We only asked $3500 for it and NO ONE will go near it. Gotta be because of the price of gas right now.

 

[Jeepwalker]

I JB Welded a hole in my snow-plow jeep's oil pan 10 years ago and it's still holding!! LOL.

XJ ...4.0 I-6. I bought it cheap. At the time my old snow plow rig was just 'done' and I found this Jeep for $500 already with a plow. But it had a number of driveline issues (worn U-joints), broken coil springs, a number of small issues, and a hole near the bottom of the oil pan that all the oil would leak out. Since it was fall, I repaired the other drivetrain issues, and didn't have time to deal with the oil pan. I drained the oil out. Let it sit a few days with no oil while i was working on the other things (so oil wouldn't 'seep' through when I applied the JB Weld patch). When it came time to apply the patch, I hit the oil pan with an air grinder and 80 grit 3m sanding disk (not grinding wheel) ...to put some grinding marks for the JB Weld to 'bite' to. Mixed up the JB Weld ....waited a couple minutes for it to become slightly less runny, then sprayed the patch area with carb cleaner and degreased ...and immediately applied the JB weld to the side of the oil pan. I think I went over it again and applied a little more ...when it was still in the semi-soft stage.

I check it every year, and the patch still looks good. Like I say, it's been ...well, since 2010 ...so I guess that's 12 years now. I completely fixed an aluminum timing cover for a 1962 Ford with JB weld (behind the water pump) and that was in like 1992 ...and it's still holding!! Under hot coolant pressure!! LOL. If you do the job right, that stuff is amazing!

 

[DeCaff2007]

I'm happy it worked for you. I've NEVER had any luck with JB Weld. It always seems to either chip off or not bond at all. I guess I just don't have the patience for area prep like I should.

Back on topic here, I check the EGR valve. It works fine. Meaning... it takes vacuum and holds tight. It also moves the pintle and diaphragm like it should.

Guess what: The timing on this turn was a little off. I managed to set it what I think is 0, with the bypass wire unplugged (the timing marks on the timing chain cover are so worn/pitted that I can't make out what it's supposed to say, so I went by ear and RPM at idle.) It has better power @ WOT now, but I think this 4.3L is just ready for bed.

Only thing I haven't checked yet is Fuel Pressure. I don't see a Schrader valve on this thing and right now I don't want to go mixing and matching fittings on metal fuel lines.

All I have left to figure out is that damned oil geiser on the side of the block. I think it may be coming from the dipstick tube where it plugs into the block. Could be broken, yes? I can't really see down there w/out removing the exhaust manifold again.

Besides that, I'd drive it down to the inspection station right friggen now.