obd1 code 22 Throttle Position Sensor

[Hartwell]

Haven’t been on the forum in a while as this semester has kept me busy, so I apologize if I’ve missed some responses on my other posts. Unfortunately with the new year a new code has come up on the burb. Code 22, throttle position sensor. I was previously dealing with a code 35 i believe the Idle Air Control valve which i’ve resolved and cleared. As for the tps I’ve checked the ground both off (12.4V) and on (14.2V if i recall correctly) And the sensor itself (blue wire) reads correctly while key turned to the on position and gradually walking the throttle up so the tps reads 5V. However with it running it only gets up to about 1V (maybe i didn’t go all the way to WOT). Runs alright while it’s cold but once it goes open loop shifting gets all out of whack and idle gets real high (about 1500rpm) and sometimes won’t shift to 2nd. I have a 1994 7.4L tbi suburban. Given this info I was wondering what would be the proper way to proceed. I believe this sensor is fairly new as I’m pretty sure I replaced it with most other sensors about 2 months ago. thanks y’all.


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[Hartwell]

Haven’t been on the forum in a while as this semester has kept me busy, so I apologize if I’ve missed some responses on my other posts. Unfortunately with the new year a new code has come up on the burb. Code 22, throttle position sensor. I was previously dealing with a code 35 i believe the Idle Air Control valve which i’ve resolved and cleared. As for the tps I’ve checked the ground both off (12.4V) and on (14.2V if i recall correctly) And the sensor itself (blue wire) reads correctly while key turned to the on position and gradually walking the throttle up so the tps reads 5V. However with it running it only gets up to about 1V (maybe i didn’t go all the way to WOT). Runs alright while it’s cold but once it goes open loop shifting gets all out of whack and idle gets real high (about 1500rpm) and sometimes won’t shift to 2nd. I have a 1994 7.4L tbi suburban. Given this info I was wondering what would be the proper way to proceed. I believe this sensor is fairly new as I’m pretty sure I replaced it with most other sensors about 2 months ago. thanks y’all.


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closed loop rather


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[Schurkey]

the sensor itself (blue wire) reads correctly while key turned to the on position and gradually walking the throttle up so the tps reads 5V. However with it running it only gets up to about 1V (maybe i didn’t go all the way to WOT)

So with the ignition on, but the engine not running, the TPS voltage varies smoothly with throttle position, going to 5V at WFO--but with the engine running, it never goes over 1 volt regardless of throttle position?

Woof. That's a new one to me.

I would slap a scan tool on the vehicle, and look at the data stream to verify the TPS voltage, and look at anything else that caught my eye.

 

[delta_p]

If you want to rule out the wiring and computer you can disconnect the TPS and at the connector/harness, verify greater than 4 -5v on the reference wire (gry i think). You can jump the reference wire (gry) to the sensor wire (blu) and verify greater then 4-5v across them (WOT). Jiggle the wires around a little, massage the harness connector : ) . If both of those works then you got a messed up TPS dropping out. Anything else is the PCM is getting intermittent dropped out voltage signals due to a gry or blu wire problems or connectors loose or something.

 

[texas tough]

check the grounds on the thermostat housing, check the TPS plug connector for good contact..make sure the screws that hold the tps on are snug. if u replaced the TPS with a cheap aftermarket part, it may have already went bad.. theres ALOT of aftermarket trash out there for parts sold on these trucks.. I pay a little more and try to get AC delco, delphi, duralast, ect.. those parts are so critical, to a good running engine. when u see a part for sale for 7.00, then one for 55.00 it isnt hard to know which one is junk.