Nv4500 clutch recommendations?

[Jason_Staggs]

1995 Chevy k1500 350 NV4500
How’s it going everyone, I was recently chasing a clunking problem in my driveline and I’m pretty sure I’ve chalked it up to the splines on my main shaft being worn so I’m pulling the trans to replace it. Truck has about 175-180k miles (50k that I’ve put on it) on it and I figured while I’m in there I would do clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, rear main, etc. My uses for the truck are about 50% regular (maybe spirited) driving, 35% towing (mostly a Rzr on a 16’ double axle and an occasional sub 6000lb vehicle), and 15% light off-roading. I was looking into the Sachs K190902HD heavy duty/towing clutch and Sachs NFW1023 Flywheel. Any one have experience with these parts or want to recommend me a different route?

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

1995 Chevy k1500 350 NV4500
How’s it going everyone, I was recently chasing a clunking problem in my driveline and I’m pretty sure I’ve chalked it up to the splines on my main shaft being worn so I’m pulling the trans to replace it.

Are you familiar with the driveshaft slip yoke clunk that’s fairly common, aka “stop clunk”?

If so, good.

 

[Jason_Staggs]

Are you familiar with the driveshaft slip yoke clunk that’s fairly common, aka “stop clunk”?

If so, good.

I am familiar Ive done some looking into it and tried the remedies to no avail. The reason I’m suspecting my transmission is because the splines on my main shaft were fairly worn out and I have a rebuilt transfer case with all new internals so I’m assuming it’s got the same issue just instead of transfer case to driveshaft clunk it’s got transmission to transfer case clunk.

 

[Scooterwrench]

Input shaft splines worn or clutch hub springs shot? I've never seen any appreciable wear on the splines but I have seen hub springs come out in pieces. A good quality stock clutch is all you need if you know how not to burn it. I've had guys demand I install some kind of badass clutch then hate it afterwards because it took both feet to mash the pedal and it was grabby.

 

[Jason_Staggs]

Input shaft splines worn or clutch hub springs shot? I've never seen any appreciable wear on the splines but I have seen hub springs come out in pieces. A good quality stock clutch is all you need if you know how not to burn it. I've had guys demand I install some kind of badass clutch then hate it afterwards because it took both feet to mash the pedal and it was grabby.

Yeah I’m worried about it being too heavy cause I love how this clutch feels right now it’s light enough to be able to work for hours but heavy enough to really get a good feel for it. Any sort of OEM+ brand you might recommend?

 

[someotherguy]

Yeah I’m worried about it being too heavy cause I love how this clutch feels right now it’s light enough to be able to work for hours but heavy enough to really get a good feel for it. Any sort of OEM+ brand you might recommend?

My guy used a Luk clutch but I don't know which one. No extra pedal effort. Seems OK so far but trans has other issues need to be resolved, unrelated.

Richard

 

[Scooterwrench]

Yeah I’m worried about it being too heavy cause I love how this clutch feels right now it’s light enough to be able to work for hours but heavy enough to really get a good feel for it. Any sort of OEM+ brand you might recommend?

Not sure anymore. I've been out of the passenger vehicle repair biz since 06. Back then I got 'em from NAPA. Always had good service with the Kevlar clutch discs. Once you get the clutch out check the flywheel surface for grooves and blue spots. If it's not grooved or burnt you can scuff it with 320 grit wrapped around a flat wooden block creating a criss-cross pattern. If it is grooved and/or burnt you will need to pull it and get it resurfaced.

 

[Scooterwrench]

Yeah I’m worried about it being too heavy cause I love how this clutch feels right now it’s light enough to be able to work for hours but heavy enough to really get a good feel for it. Any sort of OEM+ brand you might recommend?

Not sure anymore. I've been out of the passenger vehicle repair biz since 06. Back then I got 'em from NAPA. Always had good service with the Kevlar clutch discs. Once you get the clutch out check the flywheel surface for grooves and blue spots. If it's not grooved or burnt you can scuff it with 320 grit wrapped around a flat wooden block creating a criss-cross pattern. If it is grooved and/or burnt you will need to pull it and get it resurfaced.

 

[Jason_Staggs]

Not sure anymore. I've been out of the passenger vehicle repair biz since 06. Back then I got 'em from NAPA. Always had good service with the Kevlar clutch discs. Once you get the clutch out check the flywheel surface for grooves and blue spots. If it's not grooved or burnt you can scuff it with 320 grit wrapped around a flat wooden block creating a criss-cross pattern. If it is grooved and/or burnt you will need to pull it and get it resurfaced.

Appreciate the advice, I’ll probably just go ahead replace the flywheel cause the one I’m looking at is about $70 and I have to remove it anyways to do my rear main. It don’t really bother me to spend the money on it I plan on keeping it the rest of my life

 

[Scooterwrench]

Appreciate the advice, I’ll probably just go ahead replace the flywheel cause the one I’m looking at is about $70 and I have to remove it anyways to do my rear main. It don’t really bother me to spend the money on it I plan on keeping it the rest of my life

Check the price of getting yours resurfaced,it more than likely is better quality than that $70 chinese POS. Last time I had a flywheel resurfaced it cost me $35 but that was 20yrs ago.