No spark, no ground to coil?

[Nordin]

could be the crankshaft position sensor. Could also be the Passlock system, if you have a known good ICM and CPS. This happened to my 99 Burb a couple years ago, only sure cure was to have the function deleted in the computer. $250 but he starts when he's supposed to!

If it is the passlock system, would the light in the dash light or flash? My light turns on but then goes off after a little while (matter of seconds)

The ICM is a few days old, bought a brand new but still no guarantee that its working properly.
New CPS hopefully arrives today.
Is there any need for some learning process after?

 

[Nordin]

The CPS is now installed but hear this, today - no sparks at all.. I have really tried to look at all the wiring but I cant find anything thats damaged.

What would you guys have done? I do not really know how to go forward with this..

 

[Nordin]

could be the crankshaft position sensor. Could also be the Passlock system, if you have a known good ICM and CPS. This happened to my 99 Burb a couple years ago, only sure cure was to have the function deleted in the computer. $250 but he starts when he's supposed to!

If it is the passlock system, would the security light in the dash act like it always do? Start light for a few seconds as you turn the key and then go out?

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

If it is the passlock system, would the security light in the dash act like it always do? Start light for a few seconds as you turn the key and then go out?

I think that's what it's normal behavior is. When passlock kicks in, the truck will crank and start, but dies after a couple of seconds. That happens because the system shuts off power to the fuel pump relay. Passlock has a box under the center of the dashboard that sends a signal to the ignition switch. If that signal doesn't match the one the ignition switch sends back, the anti theft system is activated and the fuel pump relay gets shut off. Think of it like an electronic secret handshake.....
The passlock box has circuit boards inside; these are prone to failure after 20+ years of bouncing around in a truck.
I think there's several threads on here that cover this; I know there were. That's the truck issue that got me to join the forum, because they helped me figure it out when no one else could. In my Burb's case, I got the passlock feature electronically deleted from the PCM.

 

[Nordin]

I think that's what it's normal behavior is. When passlock kicks in, the truck will crank and start, but dies after a couple of seconds. That happens because the system shuts off power to the fuel pump relay. Passlock has a box under the center of the dashboard that sends a signal to the ignition switch. If that signal doesn't match the one the ignition switch sends back, the anti theft system is activated and the fuel pump relay gets shut off. Think of it like an electronic secret handshake.....
The passlock box has circuit boards inside; these are prone to failure after 20+ years of bouncing around in a truck.
I think there's several threads on here that cover this; I know there were. That's the truck issue that got me to join the forum, because they helped me figure it out when no one else could. In my Burb's case, I got the passlock feature electronically deleted from the PCM.

Oh okay! I've read som other threads about the passlock and it seems that its supposed to light or flash when activated, my security lights for like 5-7 seconds and then goes off so I'm not really sure if thats the problem here.

Called a shop and they could take the truck in by monday, I just dont know how to proceed from where I am right now, nothing helps :/

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

Oh okay! I've read som other threads about the passlock and it seems that its supposed to light or flash when activated, my security lights for like 5-7 seconds and then goes off so I'm not really sure if thats the problem here.

Called a shop and they could take the truck in by monday, I just dont know how to proceed from where I am right now, nothing helps :/

Yep some things like this are damn frustrating. When my Burb was acting up, we had to rent cars more than once,just to be able to get people to work. We didn't really have the money, but you sure don't without a job. Good luck, hope y'all get it sorted out and it isn't too expensive.

 

[Nordin]

Yep some things like this are damn frustrating. When my Burb was acting up, we had to rent cars more than once,just to be able to get people to work. We didn't really have the money, but you sure don't without a job. Good luck, hope y'all get it sorted out and it isn't too expensive.

Yes really frustrating, Oh man that sucks! Well sure I do but I would rather save them for something else, two houses, 5 kids every other week and wife on maternity leave

But I found something strange while poking around with a test light today, the light flickered and went out on the pink cable slot in the connector but shined strong while pierced the pink cable, maybe there is some play in the connector? Must look further into this

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

Yes really frustrating, Oh man that sucks! Well sure I do but I would rather save them for something else, two houses, 5 kids every other week and wife on maternity leave

But I found something strange while poking around with a test light today, the light flickered and went out on the pink cable slot in the connector but shined strong while pierced the pink cable, maybe there is some play in the connector? Must look further into this

A lot of frustrating, intermittent electrical problems are something like this. It's just time consuming to figure it out,requires a LOT of patience. Good luck,hope you found the culprit

 

[Nordin]

A lot of frustrating, intermittent electrical problems are something like this. It's just time consuming to figure it out,requires a LOT of patience. Good luck,hope you found the culprit

Woohoo! I found it! Finally!! It was the connector to the coil. I used my multimeter earlier and those pins are much smaller than the pin on my test light so those pins reached all the way to the bottom of the connector!
Now I just have to find me a new connector in Sweden, looks like the cables are glued in this connector or something like that?

 

[Schurkey]

I wouldn't expect them to be "glued" unless someone has been in there screwing things up.

I'd expect the wire terminals have lock tabs that need to be retracted with a "special tool" before they can be removed. There's probably a way to disassemble the plastic connector body before removing the terminals.

Can you reach into the connector body with a tiny needle-nose pliers or other tool, and gently re-form the terminals without disassembling the connector?

Alternatively, you may be able to buy a connector with ~6 inches of wires included, (a "pigtail harness") then splice the three wires into your existing harness.

I've done lots of work with the older Weatherpack connectors, but almost none with the newer styles of weather-sealed connectors--Metri-pack and similar. Instructions will be in the Service Manual, and some of them can be downloaded free on this site. You'll need the "special tool" to release the terminals from the connector body--something like these:

www.amazon.com/s?k=metri-pack+terminal+removal+tool