Newbie Check-in and Question

[karitoki]

On the first, that shouldn’t toss a code being at 1-degree at 1000-rpm. I’ll look for the diagnostic table, but that’s code P1345 right?

On the a/c side, disconnect the connector at each actuator and there should be three wires. One is ground, one is hot (battery) and the other is signal from the control panel. I forget which is which, but the signal one should vary as the dial on the panel is adjusted. See if it does that. It’ll be either 1 to 5V or 1 to 12V - I’m drawing a blank on it.

The battery wire would be a constant 12V or so. Check both using the ground pin in the connector and also to chassis metal to rule out a ground problem.

If I was to shotgun a part, it would be the control panel but checking the wiring is free.

Thanks for the reply!

I agree on 1 degree not being enough to create a code; all the info I've read is that you're good if it's +-2 degrees. I'm thinking that maybe the Torque app isn't as accurate as I need. I had to add the PID manually which included a formula. I triple checked the formula to what I entered, so I might try a different app or see if I can rent a "real" scanner that does CMP Offset from a parts store. Another bit of info: the distributor came with a clamp piece to secure the unit in place that was different from the original. With the original (which is on the truck now) I can adjust the position of the distributor by turning it CW or CCW. The one that came with the new distributor locks it in place. I initially installed it, but when I turned the distributor to allow the clamp to seat in place, it advanced the location of the housing CW so that the rotor past the number one cylinder location at TDC. I'm wondering if it would be worth it to install it and see what happens. Currently, the rotor is right at the contact for the #1 cylinder with the engine at exactly TDC.

I was headed in the same direction on the actuators! Thank you for providing the voltages I'll be looking for!

Again, thanks for taking the time to reply. I really appreciate it.

 

[east302]

DashCommand and CarGaugePro (I think I got those right) will also read the CMP offset.

Some aftermarket distributors use that fixed hold-down clamp. I’ve always removed it and reused the factory one so that it can be adjusted.

When at zero (or so) degrees, the cap’s hold down screw should be nearly hitting the upper intake.

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For a 1998 P1345 DTC

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[karitoki]

east302, you really are awesome! Thanks so much for the info! I'll let you know how it turns out.

 

[karitoki]

Ding, ding, ding! We have a winner! I loosened up the distributor clamp (total PIA) and cranked the distributor CCW until the front screw was close to the upper manifold. Started it up with my Foxwell scanner attached, cleared the code, and waited. No code returned! Thanks again to east302!! Now it's on to the actuators...

 

[east302]

Good deal, glad you got it sorted out. Sounds like your first scan reading (1-degree) wasn’t too accurate then. I’ve heard that it has to be out beyond 14-degrees to throw the code, so you might still be out of spec but not enough to trip the code.

It’d probably be worthwhile to double-check it down the line.