Newbie Check-in and Question

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karitoki

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I've been dark for a while, but I'm still plugging away on the Suburban. The new spider is installed, and the upper and lower manifold gaskets replaced and torqued down. I'm almost positive the leak was from the lower manifold and not the freeze plug.
Today I completed the removal of the HVAC box assembly from the truck. Does anyone know of a source for a replacement blend door assembly? I'm going to need the whole thing; upper and lower housing, inner doors, and the control arms. I've searched online with no success yet. Any assistance would be appreciated.
 

east302

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Parts diagrams are here...

https://nemigaparts.com/cat_spares/epc/chevrolet/

You cannot buy anything from them, but it has the GM numbers which helps. #30 can still be had - it’s easier to just buy a new one since it includes the two dampers and they’re hard to get out without cracking the plastic. I bought one not too long ago, just get some upholstery foam to replace the existing and you’re good to go. #26 damper can be had on Amazon and is easy to swap out.

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karitoki

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Just starting back on the project. Weather and just a bout of laziness has kept me from doing much of anything. I did get the steer box out this weekend! That was a challenge!
I have a question on the heating/cooing actuators. Only one of the three still has a label that's legible. Here is what I have. If anyone can add to it I'd appreciate it:
Actuator by the fan: 1617292
Actuator that controls the door in the middle of the assembly (floor door?): 16174xx
Blend door actuator: 1617x41x

Thanks in advance!
 

east302

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On mine (1998) the mode actuator (gas pedal) and temperature actuator (behind ashtray) are the same part. The recirc is different.

Earlier models may vary. GM part numbers are eight digits. Best guess on your numbers is 16177412.


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karitoki

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On mine (1998) the mode actuator (gas pedal) and temperature actuator (behind ashtray) are the same part. The recirc is different.

Earlier models may vary. GM part numbers are eight digits. Best guess on your numbers is 16177412.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks!
 

karitoki

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Well, it's been three months to the day that I tore into my Suburban thinking I had a leaking freeze plug. I know I haven't been very diligent about posting in my progress, but with work and cold/rainy weather it's been a slow progress. As of today the engine is 100% back together. I've done the following:
1. Replaced the lower manifold gasket. This turned out to be the cause of the leaking coolant. It had been done before, and it was a mess. No leaks now.
2. Installed the new fangled Spider MPFI device. Works.
3. Replaced the power steering pump and steering box.
4. Replaced the distributor, wires, and plugs.
5. Replaced the serpentine belt and both idle pulleys.
6. Pulled the dash and HVAC box and replaced the blend door assembly and all three actuators.

I had a heck of a time when I first started it up. It was hydrolocking and wouldn't start. I suspected it was a timing issue and I was right. I had put the replacement distributor back in the same orientation as the original one, and it was wrong. Thanks to a very informative YouTube video I was able to get it in correctly. The truck runs smoothly, but I have two problems:

1. Despite having a CMP Offset of 1.38, it's still throwing a Camshaft position sensor code. I used the Torque app to set the CMP Offset and was sure to take the reading at over 1000RPMs.

2. Even after performing an actuator calibration (disconnecting the battery, reconnecting it, turning the key to "on" and waiting for at least a minute) the temperature and blend door actuators do nothing. It's stuck blowing cold are out at floor vent. The controller connectors are seated properly. The fan dial works.

If anyone has any ideas on these two issues, please reply. I greatly appreciate any and all assistance.
 

east302

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On the first, that shouldn’t toss a code being at 1-degree at 1000-rpm. I’ll look for the diagnostic table, but that’s code P1345 right?

On the a/c side, disconnect the connector at each actuator and there should be three wires. One is ground, one is hot (battery) and the other is signal from the control panel. I forget which is which, but the signal one should vary as the dial on the panel is adjusted. See if it does that. It’ll be either 1 to 5V or 1 to 12V - I’m drawing a blank on it.

The battery wire would be a constant 12V or so. Check both using the ground pin in the connector and also to chassis metal to rule out a ground problem.

If I was to shotgun a part, it would be the control panel but checking the wiring is free.

Edit: brown is battery 12V, black is ground and light blue is signal on the temperature actuator. It’s white on the mode actuator by the gas pedal.

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