Newbie Check-in and Question

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karitoki

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New member looking for direction...

I have a 1998 Chevy 1500 Suburban 4x4 I purchased a couple of years ago for $1,000.00. Body is solid with zero rust, the transmission was replaced two years previous to the sale, and the engine (though it had 210k miles) ran strong with no smoke. It's also the only Suburban I've ever seen with factory chrome wheels and a blue leather interior. The PO told me it had a bad wheel bearing that was causing a noise, but after a couple of months and after replacing the wheel bearing, I determined it was the transfer case. No biggie, bought one online from an East coast wrecking yard and slapped it in. 4wd works great. Anyway, outside of it needing a new blend door unit I really like this rig. Unfortunately, last week I discovered it had lost coolant for the second time in a month. This time it was obvious what was wrong in that coolant was leaking freely back by the starter motor. From the research I've done it looks like a freeze plug behind the flex plate has failed.

I'm not a "car guy" but I'm mechanically sound and have a good assortment of tools, a engine jack, and engine stand. I've started taking it apart to remove the engine with the intention of replacing the plugs, water pump, main seal, hoses etc, but with 230K on the engine I'm wondering what options are out there and what more experienced owners of this type of rig would recommend. Am I stuck with fuel injection? I just looked at the BluePrint engine website and everything there isn't Vortec compatable. Again, I think this 'Burb is worth saving and I'm willing to learn and get creative. All ideas welcome! Thanks!
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SUBURBAN5

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New member looking for direction...

I have a 1998 Chevy 1500 Suburban 4x4 I purchased a couple of years ago for $1,000.00. Body is solid with zero rust, the transmission was replaced two years previous to the sale, and the engine (though it had 210k miles) ran strong with no smoke. It's also the only Suburban I've ever seen with factory chrome wheels and a blue leather interior. The PO told me it had a bad wheel bearing that was causing a noise, but after a couple of months and after replacing the wheel bearing, I determined it was the transfer case. No biggie, bought one online from an East coast wrecking yard and slapped it in. 4wd works great. Anyway, outside of it needing a new blend door unit I really like this rig. Unfortunately, last week I discovered it had lost coolant for the second time in a month. This time it was obvious what was wrong in that coolant was leaking freely back by the starter motor. From the research I've done it looks like a freeze plug behind the flex plate has failed.

I'm not a "car guy" but I'm mechanically sound and have a good assortment of tools, a engine jack, and engine stand. I've started taking it apart to remove the engine with the intention of replacing the plugs, water pump, main seal, hoses etc, but with 230K on the engine I'm wondering what options are out there and what more experienced owners of this type of rig would recommend. Am I stuck with fuel injection? I just looked at the BluePrint engine website and everything there isn't Vortec compatable. Again, I think this 'Burb is worth saving and I'm willing to learn and get creative. All ideas welcome! Thanks!
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Very nice suburban. Welcome to the forum. As a current suburban owner. I would advise some mods. First one being the new mpfi system. Second if you remove the plugs. Slap in brass ones. 3rd. May not be a bad idea to perform some maintenance it needs. 210k miles. Shes got plenty of life so long as you take care of her and dont beat it to the ground. Also what are your plans for this truck?. Stock, performance, off road rig?
 

HotWheelsBurban

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Yes if you're pulling the engine, it'll be easier to get the timing cover and oil pan off. My Burbs have all been 2wd, but there's still not much room to do this job in the truck. The timing cover is plastic, and the factory recommends that it be replaced when removed for service. They're available in the aftermarket, just go with a good brand and follow the instructions. When I did the timing job on my other 99 Burb 5.7(I've had 2, my avatar picture is the current Burb), it was in 2007 and there weren't as many choices. I got a new GM parts one from the Chevy dealer and it was $58. I used a felpro gasket set for everything.
Best advice I can give you is, take your time, mark every connection and hose you take loose with its other end, buy ziploc bags and a sharpie marker to sort and identify your fasteners. These trucks are relatively easy to work on,and there's a whole bunch of us here to try to answer your questions. @SUBURBAN5 is right that these trucks will live almost forever with a little bit of regular maintenance. His has 470 something thousand miles on it so he should know! Mine only has 192 thousand.
 

karitoki

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Very nice suburban. Welcome to the forum. As a current suburban owner. I would advise some mods. First one being the new mpfi system. Second if you remove the plugs. Slap in brass ones. 3rd. May not be a bad idea to perform some maintenance it needs. 210k miles. Shes got plenty of life so long as you take care of her and dont beat it to the ground. Also what are your plans for this truck?. Stock, performance, off road rig?

Thanks for the response! I have a company truck and a Japanese Kei truck, so I don't put that many miles on the Suburban. Maybe 200 or so a month. I think I would drive it more once I'm finished with the project. It's nice to have a vehicle that can fit my wife and our older kids and grandkids if necessary. Also, we have a pop-top trailer we've pulled with it in the past. Really, my justification for it is that it's a bugout vehicle! So, the answer to your question would be "Stock"
 

karitoki

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Yes if you're pulling the engine, it'll be easier to get the timing cover and oil pan off. My Burbs have all been 2wd, but there's still not much room to do this job in the truck. The timing cover is plastic, and the factory recommends that it be replaced when removed for service. They're available in the aftermarket, just go with a good brand and follow the instructions. When I did the timing job on my other 99 Burb 5.7(I've had 2, my avatar picture is the current Burb), it was in 2007 and there weren't as many choices. I got a new GM parts one from the Chevy dealer and it was $58. I used a felpro gasket set for everything.
Best advice I can give you is, take your time, mark every connection and hose you take loose with its other end, buy ziploc bags and a sharpie marker to sort and identify your fasteners. These trucks are relatively easy to work on,and there's a whole bunch of us here to try to answer your questions. @SUBURBAN5 is right that these trucks will live almost forever with a little bit of regular maintenance. His has 470 something thousand miles on it so he should know! Mine only has 192 thousand.


Thanks for the response!

+1 on all the prep advice! I have a log that corresponds to everything I label. I label the cable/hose with a number (PS1=Passenger side #1) and then use a paint pen to write the number by where it went. Luckily, I have a company vehicle and my Kei truck as backups, so I'm in no rush to get this done.
 

HotWheelsBurban

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Sounds like you're off to a good start! Nice Burb, welcome to the forum!
BTW I think the wheels are actually from the next generation truck, but they look great on yours. I learned when we got our previous 99 Burb in 2005, that we needed to individualize our truck because there were so many similar ones in parking lots. I think white is the next most popular color for them besides pewter! The 400 series Burbs and Tahoes are still fairly common in greater Houston, so I have car show stickers on my long side windows that can be seen at a distance. Keeps me from walking out to the wrong truck!
 

SUBURBAN5

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Thanks for the response! I have a company truck and a Japanese Kei truck, so I don't put that many miles on the Suburban. Maybe 200 or so a month. I think I would drive it more once I'm finished with the project. It's nice to have a vehicle that can fit my wife and our older kids and grandkids if necessary. Also, we have a pop-top trailer we've pulled with it in the past. Really, my justification for it is that it's a bugout vehicle! So, the answer to your question would be "Stock"


Wise decision. Stock best way to go and is the way the general planned it. Your plan of repairs is a great way to start. There are things that will go out like the fuel pump or may have issues with the evo in the power steering. Easy to fix and there awesome simple rigs. Like @HotWheelsBurban said. Mine has been with my family for 23yrs. The original vortec 350 hit 425k before it needed some repairs I wasnt willing to fix lol. Threw in a rebuilt motor in it and now I'm really wanting a 383 stroker. Anyways currently shes at 474k miles but not original drive train. The original 4l60e gave up around 200ksomething a while back. I've been replacing as much as I can to get it as close to new a possible. Now there are some mods you can do as well that help make these trucks a little more solid:) cant wait to see your progress
 

Erik the Awful

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I'd suspect an intake manifold leak before a freeze plug. If so, do the MPFI conversion and go ahead and pull the intake and put the better gasket kit in it.

If it is the rear freeze plug, leave the engine in place and drop the transmission and flexplate to access it. +1 on the brass freeze plugs. Replace the rear main seal while you're in there.

If you're not planning on a big cam, stick with the stock fuel injection system, but strongly consider the MPFI conversion while you're in there.

If the engine's not blowing smoke, I wouldn't bother pulling it. Drive it until it drops.

Edit: I just realized you mean the rear freeze plug on the passenger side. Has anyone tried hoisting the driver side to tilt that freeze plug down? If that doesn't give you good access, yeah, pull the motor.
 
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