Nbs or nnbs wheels on 305s

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Crash

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Here's mine when I had 305's
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kkirwan71

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seeing as how well they clear how about 315s on the same wheels? what would I need to do to make them clear?
 

tylers88

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Lift either suspension or body so you don't have to crank so much the front end hates life, gears 4:56 or 4:88 and brakes. A lot of guys don't do gears for 35s but quite a few are the same guys that complain how weak 700s and 60Es are. It puts a lot of stews on the transmission without them due to the added rotating mass, that's the same reason you need to do something about the brakes too because 400s brakes suck anyway and bigger tires just make this more evident.
 

kkirwan71

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Lift either suspension or body so you don't have to crank so much the front end hates life, gears 4:56 or 4:88 and brakes. A lot of guys don't do gears for 35s but quite a few are the same guys that complain how weak 700s and 60Es are. It puts a lot of stews on the transmission without them due to the added rotating mass, that's the same reason you need to do something about the brakes too because 400s brakes suck anyway and bigger tires just make this more evident.

I just had my trans rebuilt very heavy duty so I'm good there but the body lift sounds like a good idea I have mine cranked right now with a rebuilt front ends as of last year with alignment. Your input is greatly appreciated


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tylers88

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When you crank again you'll need another alignment, rule of thumb is safely cranked is 2 or 3 ribs on CV boot touching(can't remember but want to say 3), 1 ton front calipers and a NBS master cylinder are pretty common brake upgrades too and there are write ups on those just understand when you get to hilly sections you may as well pull it out of overdrive to keep it from hunting gears. Honestly though I would just get 285s or 305s, the step up to run 35s over 33s properly can be pretty costly.
 
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kkirwan71

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I did the alignment as well how hard is it to do the 1 ton calipers? And what year should I look for for the master cylinder?


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