NBS master cylinder Swap

[Pinger]

I do jump off the brakes as soon as I've slowed enough or stopped (to let them cool and not warp). Currently, it's anxiety about the sinking pedal that keeps me poking at them when stopped.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

I actually use alot of compression braking as well, especially when towing. A V8 engine has alot of braking force to offer.

 

[SUBURBAN5]

Has anyone else on here tried brake cooling ducts? Relatively cheap, simple and work really well especially for a tow vehicle. I have done the mod to both my Express van and my Tahoe. Allstar makes a metal duct attachment piece for both left and right hand side that you cut out part of the rotor backing plate to fit into place. I pop riveted them into place. Then bought the 3" hose in a 10' section. Then used two ABS scoops that I attached to the holes in the lower valance. Route the hoses and support them in 2-3 places with cheap metal 3" pipe hangers like you see sprinkler pipes hanging from in buildings. I made the modification in one afternoon while changing the rotors for about the 4th time. When I had the 1500 front rotors it cured my rotor warping issue I had towing despite having adequate trailer brakes and a properly adjusted controller. The large scoops facing into the wind at 40+ MPH forces alot of cooling air directly into the backside of the rotor where it can flow through the vanes and help cool it effectively. If someone felt the need they could use a pair of those 12 volt bilge blowers for a boat in-line wired to a relay connected to the brake switch and have rotor cooling while stopped.

If you got a pic I'm curious? I just rely on the fins lol

 

[L31MaxExpress]

These are the main components I used to build my brake cooling setup. Not the cheapest way to do it but has held up for nearly 4 years of driving on the Express van. Once installed looks almost like GM could have put it there. Put a little thought into the routing and properly supporting the hoses too. Everything hangs above the valance and crossmember so it is unlikely to ever get ripped off by anything. Need to get pics of the install someday.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[SUBURBAN5]

These are the main components I used to build my brake cooling setup. Not the cheapest way to do it but has held up for nearly 4 years of driving on the Express van. Once installed looks almost like GM could have put it there. Put a little thought into the routing and properly supporting the hoses too. Everything hangs above the valance and crossmember so it is unlikely to ever get ripped off by anything. Need to get pics of the install someday.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Please do never heard of it

 

[L31MaxExpress]

If you got a pic I'm curious? I just rely on the fins lol

This setup is on a E36 BMW but shows the basic setup very well. My setup runs along the sway bar on both sides, under the frame to the front of both backing plates but you get the idea.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Supercharged111]

I'd consider ducts if I were experiencing pad fade but haven't yet even with the trailer. I'm not the least bit against tossing the shields though.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

I'd consider ducts if I were experiencing pad fade but haven't yet even with the trailer. I'm not the least bit against tossing the shields though.

No pad fade here but was warping rotors about every other trip with the travel trailer. Even with the shifter in 2nd at 4,000+ rpm I once counted 13 brake applications from 65 down to 55 mph while going down a 2-3 mile ~6% grade. I don't ride the brakes at all. Let the speed gain to a certain point, then I am on the brakes fairly solid until the speed drops, let off completely and let them cool until I have to do it again. When I got to the pulloff at the bottom and stopped the front brakes were smoking. The trailer has brakes on both axles and they were pretty hot as well. Same trip the next year, brakes stayed much cooler. Well worth the minimal investment.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

I had to cut holes in the Tahoe's valance but the Express van came with holes already in it. That cheesy little air guide rivited on the lower control arm does nothing by comparison to the scoops and tubes. Removing the backing plates might help but never tried it myself especially since my ABS and ABS sensors are still in place and built into them. One could also probably build a larger scoop with some sheet metal and attach it to the lower control arm as a cheaper alternative to scoop more air toward the back side of the rotor. I also noticed in the heat of Texas summer when the van was still stock and I had been traveling in traffic at highway speeds with numerous moderate brake applications avoiding slower traveling idiots that feel the need to move to the left lane at 15 mph under the posted limit the front wheels were very hot even scalding to the touch. After the brake cooling air tubes were installed the front wheels were noticeably cooler.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Supercharged111]

No pad fade here but was warping rotors about every other trip with the travel trailer. Even with the shifter in 2nd at 4,000+ rpm I once counted 13 brake applications from 65 down to 55 mph while going down a 2-3 mile ~6% grade. I don't ride the brakes at all. Let the speed gain to a certain point, then I am on the brakes fairly solid until the speed drops, let off completely and let them cool until I have to do it again. When I got to the pulloff at the bottom and stopped the front brakes were smoking. The trailer has brakes on both axles and they were pretty hot as well. Same trip the next year, brakes stayed much cooler. Well worth the minimal investment.

Ahh, mine don't warp they heat check. But it's so hard to get good rotors I'd just as soon replace them every time I do pads which seems to be every 40k.