my SAS ?'s thread

[jps4jeep]

Re: steering, back on pg 1 I asked if you needed crossover steering, I appologize, should have said hi steer.

The cheapest way to get your steering solved with a sas is to use tre that are used in this kit
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/ylink.html
And re-team your knuckles from the top down. These tre use a 1.5"/foot taper which is slightly larger than a stock 1/2ton taper (which escapes my mind)

I'll snap some pics next time I'm in the shop

 

[outalne94z71]

Re: steering, back on pg 1 I asked if you needed crossover steering, I appologize, should have said hi steer.

The cheapest way to get your steering solved with a sas is to use tre that are used in this kit
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/ylink.html
And re-team your knuckles from the top down. These tre use a 1.5"/foot taper which is slightly larger than a stock 1/2ton taper (which escapes my mind)

I'll snap some pics next time I'm in the shop

that kind of drag link angle loses a good amount of throw from the steering arm vs a drag link attached to the top of the passenger knuckle, not to mention that it would also be prone to more bump steer, the flatter the drag link is the better off you are.

 

[Swims350]

thanks for the pics and info.

I was thinking of doing it that way 10 b ds and 44 ps flat top. didn't know if that'd work out ok or not.

as for the crossover steering I was thinking the same, use the ones that mount on the arms for sure.

I really don't want to ream anything or taper since I don't have the tools and I don't drill straight LOL. nor do I have a press, local machine shop not sure how great they are honestly.

Now are heim's street legal?

also most kits I see have the tie rod type ends on the center link and the drag link, so that means for sure I need the TRE taper in the steering arms to use them? they confuse me on those arms having TRE taper or not. Best I guess is TRE taper like I mentioned then not TRE taper is for using heims, straight hole drilled for a thru bolt.

 

[jps4jeep]

Not everyone runs 12" lift springs. Sas on a sensibly tall spring, you'll be fine. If you linking your front end, match drag link angle to your track bar angle and bump steer is gone.

 

[JonZ71]

Why wouldn't heim's be dot legal?

 

[Swims350]

well I have no idea, but sometimes dot can be a pain and around here I don't want anything tha won't pass inspection.

now are they better the TRE's?

I know they should be alot stronger, but do they last longer? do they hold up out in the weather being metal and not greased or covered in rubber? My truck sees alot of sit time, and rust loves when a vehicle sits.

 

[JonZ71]

usually heims are stronger.

 

[Swims350]

ok nest up, wfo offers a tie rod kit and a drag link kit.

I am looking to use the stock gm 10 bolt tie rod? that connects the knuckles together, down low, and then what I need from the PS arm to the pitman arm is the drag link? so that'd be the kit I want.

not sure what the difference is between drag link kit and tie rod kit.

 

[Swims350]

double post, sorry.

I also considered finding the dom tubing, tube nuts/ends and stuff seperatey and use them, if I do what do the TRE come from if I use them, they ae mostly listed as 7/8 ends so I guess 1 ton chevys? I see 1 ton chevy pop up alot in descriptions for the TRE's or steering arms.

 

[outalne94z71]

double post, sorry.

I also considered finding the dom tubing, tube nuts/ends and stuff seperatey and use them, if I do what do the TRE come from if I use them, they ae mostly listed as 7/8 ends so I guess 1 ton chevys? I see 1 ton chevy pop up alot in descriptions for the TRE's or steering arms.

you use drag link ends, they are all the same from 1/2 ton to 1 ton, the bar from pitman to steering arm is the drag link