Jumpers set incorrectly is most likely explanation. If it's the module that has two banks of jumpers instead of just one, you have to set one bank inverse of the first one. Best practice is to take a picture of the original settings before you change anything. Also, soldering in DIP switches in place of the jumpers makes them far easier to configure, plus makes it a snap to try a few different settings to fine-tune the result.
For example here's a double bank unit from a '94 model I did years ago; your '95 likely has the same design.
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I did discover later that shaving down the edge of a 7 position DIP switch so that they would fit next to each other like that isn't a great idea, as it allows the switch body to fall apart. A 6 position switch will fit just fine and works as the first position in all the possible settings is alwas "on" so you don't really need it to be switchable; you can leave the jumper in place and locate the switch starting in the second jumper position. Gets a little tricky to understand from reading it but just look at the original settings and ignore the #1 position as it stays constant, then consider the next 6 positions need to be configurable, put the 6 position DIP switch in the place of those jumpers. You can ignore the number markings on the switch body and just follow its physical position.
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Finally here's one that is usually found in older models with just one bank of jumpers, replaced with a DIP switch. This is from a '93 I did:
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Richard
