Lowering Shop in Orange County, Ca.

[oldelpasso]

Thanks guys! Appreciate all of the info!

 

[oldelpasso]

Don't have to, just makes it easier. The bed support does need to be notched to clear the pumpkin, but that can be done in place as well.

Ah, that's good to know, thank you!

 

[oldelpasso]

I've had JR lower my C10, OBS and Caddy XTS. No issues whatsoever. He's a straight shooter. You'll not be disappointed with the price, quality and turnaround time.

I just gave them a call. They seemed knowledgeable, and did quote a really reasonable price. I've got a couple of weeks to decide.

 

[Double Dee]

I thought you had to remove the bed to do the C notch. If I recall you also need to cut out one of the channels under the bed, but that may be bad recollection on my part. But also helps if you're doing a fuel sender swap, which I need to do.

I missed that in your original message. I did my own bolt-in McGaughy's C-notch. From my experience, ALWAYS remove the bed to do the C-notch. Some guys can do it without removing the bed but I don't recommend it. I also had my C-notch welded, since it is stronger and you can't remove the notch once the frame is cut.

 

[Double Dee]

I thought you had to remove the bed to do the C notch. If I recall you also need to cut out one of the channels under the bed, but that may be bad recollection on my part. But also helps if you're doing a fuel sender swap, which I need to do.

I also cut the bed rail (only the section that I needed) once the bed was off. I also took the opportunity to drill holes for my air lines, clean the bottom of the bed and clean the frame, etc.

 

[oldelpasso]

I also cut the bed rail (only the section that I needed) once the bed was off. I also took the opportunity to drill holes for my air lines, clean the bottom of the bed and clean the frame, etc.

Thanks! Good info there, I appreciate your reply!

 

[618 Syndicate]

I missed that in your original message. I did my own bolt-in McGaughy's C-notch. From my experience, ALWAYS remove the bed to do the C-notch. Some guys can do it without removing the bed but I don't recommend it. I also had my C-notch welded, since it is stronger and you can't remove the notch once the frame is cut.

I've done 3 personally without removing any of the beds. I agree it's easier, but it's not hard with the bed in place. A bolt in notch is plenty strong, even if you're towing to capacity, but mine are welded also.
Not sure what you mean by removing the notch...

 

[oldelpasso]

I've done 3 personally without removing any of the beds. I agree it's easier, but it's not hard with the bed in place. A bolt in notch is plenty strong, even if you're towing to capacity, but mine are welded also.
Not sure what you mean by removing the notch...

I took that to mean the notch plate/support. Once the frame has been notched you won't pull that plate off, so you may as well weld it and make it stronger and permanent.

 

[618 Syndicate]

I took that to mean the notch plate/support. Once the frame has been notched you won't pull that plate off, so you may as well weld it and make it stronger and permanent.

That could be what he meant.
There's some debate as to whether welding a notch (especially if done at home with a small welder) heats and weakens the frame, in fact most big trucks have stickers which expressly state not to weld on the frame for this reason, but it's unresolved. Mine are welded, as are the plates on the notch we cut down on my dually.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

in fact most big trucks have stickers which expressly state not to weld on the frame for this reason,

As an example, we weren't allowed to weld on the cast or forged front platen of our extrusion presses due to high pressures and flex causing cracks. We had to drill, tap, and bolt (in 30" plus thick material) any attachments or modifications. That's why we had some big Mag Drills, ha ha.