Lower Control Arms Help

[ItsMarty]

I’m assuming the forged control arms have different size bushings? I ordered a full kit of polys for my truck, I’ll have to see how the lowers I already have fit

 

[JayMB]

The parts houses show different part numbers for the stamped vs forged arms. I don't have any stamped arms available to tell what the difference is.

 

[454cid]

Are the Hummer H2 bushings somehow different from (superior to?) the bushings used on other 3/4 ton fully forged lower control arms?

Or are they just a convenient vehicle to look up for the correct part? (I'm assuming H2's never had the stamped arms?)

Curious for myself here, but I think it'd be useful info to many.

I was curious too, so I looked them up. The H2 uses different bushings than what is listed for my 1-ton. Bonus is that front and rear come as a set, but unfortunately a brand I've never heard of. For my truck, I'd have to buy Moog and AC Delco to get both front and rear bushings. They do look differeent, but both applications lack the outer shell that the upper control arms or stamped lowers use. I was looking on Rockauto. I think I'd look for 1-ton bushings other places..... Amazon, Advance Auto, and maybe 1AAuto.... and Summit or Jegs?

Edit: Forged and stamped definetly use different bushings.

 

[Oldschooltruckdude]

I just used a torch on my 90 K1500. Just turned the oxygen up on it till it whistles pretty loud, right at the edge of popping out. No lever action. Just wash away the ball joint. Gets really bright, use burning goggles. You can see it plain. Have a jug of water, hammer, chisel, small bar. Cool off the c-arm if it starts getting too warm. Drag the slag out as you go along. Go easy, take your time, no problem. When you turn the torch up to "wash" like this, its very easy to control. The oxygen washes the metal away. Do NOT hit the lever. Maybe practice on something else 1st, like wash a nut off a big bolt, see how it works. You do have to heat it up some 1st at the normal cutting settings, usually. then just give it more oxygen at the knob by the lever. Where the hoses connect, your acetylene should be cracked open, oxygen all the way open regardless of what youre doing. Make a nice pinpoint flame with no whistle. Heat up. Give more oxygen till it whistles loud, this gives air to blow away metal. Wash it out. The ball joint and the c-arm heat up at different rates, watch closely, mind which way you point torch. Put a piece of scrap tin on the floor so you dont pop the concrete cuz you will have a lot of slag coming out of there. Youre welcome.

 

[CNRED]

These folks offer some inexpensive alternative parts when altering your ride.


https://djmsuspension.com/product-category/chevy-c1500-8898xsc-part/

 

[RmeSGT]

You are correct now that I remember. I do recall my 91' LD K2500 LCA's had pressed in BJ's, so it must've been only the first couple years?

I KNOW that my 1993 K1500 had riveted ball joints on the front lower control arms.

The removal is about a 15 minute deal. Here is the process I use:

1) Use a die grinder to cut an “X” or “+” sign in the top (head) of the rivet.

2) Use an air chisel or small sledge and chisel to chip off the head of rivet.

3) Use center punch to enable you to use a small drill bit.

4) Use small drill bit to drill a vertical hole in the center of rivet as it goes through the holes of the lower control arm. Try to get as far through the rivet as possible, at least half-way. (Taking care to ONLY drill the rivet)

5) Use a larger drill bit to make a larger vertical hole in the center of the rivet. Go as far through as possible. Again, be careful to keep from drilling into the control arm itself.

6) Use an air hammer/chisel or small sledge and chisel to pound the rivet out downward.

Sounds like a pain, and it is. But this is BY fAR the simplest and fastest way I know to remove these. Literally 15 minutes per side. And, you never have to do it again.

 

[RmeSGT]

I found some for 1200 but comes with uppers and give 2 inches lift

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The original post was about the K series, not the C series. Two different animals people, please pay attention as you read these replies.

I know this is a “no crap” statement, but don’t order anything suggested without paying attention to whether it is for a C1500/2500 or a K1500/2500.

 

[1994k1500]

Just to throw in another method, I used a small drill press (8" Craftsman I think) propped up on a couple blocks of wood to drill out the rivets on my 94 K1500. Saved my arm and back from having to drill out all of the rivets on my hands an knees

 

[1989GMCSIERRA]

I found some for 1200 but comes with uppers and give 2 inches lift

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He’s got a 4WD. That’s a 2WD suspension. Won’t work.

 

[Schurkey]

I’ve got polys for all the control arms, leafs/shackles and body mount bushings that I’ll be installing

1. I don't know of any Polyurethane bushings for GMT400 that come with the steel sleeves for the UPPER bushings. They have the steel sleeves for the LOWER bushings, but not uppers. I had to fabricate some for my truck--the originals were too far gone to re-use.

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2. Bushing part numbers can be different for all sorts of reasons. They could be different size, or different shape...or...the part numbers could be different because the rubber is harder on one than the other; or one bushing doesn't have (or need) an outer shell.

I have not yet installed my Poly bushing inserts in the forged lower control arms on my K2500; but I expect the same inserts to fit just like they did on the stamped arms of my K1500.

Perhaps I'm going to be very disappointed.