Lifter tick issue

[97C1500TJ]

I’ve got a 97 C1500 with the 350. On cold mornings, it had a passenger side tick. When driving it for a few minutes it goes away as it warms up but before it sounds like a diesel sometimes. I’ve heard to try adding Marvel Mystery Oil to the crankcase before an oil change and that hasn’t helped. My main concern is do I need to replace the lifters? I’ve also wondered if it’s an exhaust leak but I don’t think that’s the case.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

My main concern is do I need to replace the lifters?

Probably not but, I'd pull the valve covers and check my lifter preload and feel for any loose rocker arms.

I’ve also wondered if it’s an exhaust leak but I don’t think that’s the case.

That's a possibility.

 

[97C1500TJ]

Probably not but, I'd pull the valve covers and check my lifter preload and feel for any loose rocker arms.


That's a possibility.

Lifter preload as in the torque spec on the rocker arms?

 

[Frank Enstein]

I have had ProLong stop the lifter tick in 2 different engines. I don't know what magic is in that snake oil but the tick never came back in both engines.

Besides, Smokey Yunick used to endorse the stuff. He's not known for bullshirt.

 

[Erin]

I had a lifter tick in my old tbi 350. Ended up being a bad lifter bore. Also, I thought exhaust leaks were constant.

 

[slowburb]

Lifter preload as in the torque spec on the rocker arms?

Yeah Kenny, that's right. But it's not a simple torque spec, more complicated than that. The specific lifter you want to adjust has to be on the base circle of its cam lobe, at zero lash. Then you tighten around 1/2 to 3/4 turn to set preload.

 

[Frank Enstein]

An exhaust can sometimes quiet down when the engine warms up but they are usually constant.

 

[97C1500TJ]

An exhaust can sometimes quiet down when the engine warms up but they are usually constant.

That’s a possibility. I hear a slight tick by the exhaust manifold area when it’s warm on that side.

 

[97C1500TJ]

Yeah Kenny, that's right. But it's not a simple torque spec, more complicated than that. The specific lifter you want to adjust has to be on the base circle of its cam lobe, at zero lash. Then you tighten around 1/2 to 3/4 turn to set preload.

May have to consult my manual on that one…

 

[Frank Enstein]

Here is the procedure to adjust the valves on a new 8 cylinder engine:



Turn the crank clockwise while watching the number one cylinder pushrods.



Watch the exhaust pushrod go up and down and then the intake pushrod go up and down.



Continue to rotate the crank after the intake pushrod goes all the way down until the timing marks



Line up on 0 degrees.



(This will be LESS than 1/2 turn of the crank after the intake pushrod is all the way down.)



Install rockers and tighten the nut while rattling the pushrods up and down until the rattle just stops.



At this point you are at ZERO LASH.



Tighten further to add your preload ( typically 1/2 turn after the rattle stops ).



Do this to both rockers for number 1 cylinder. Cylinder number 1 is DONE!



Now turn the crank 90 degrees ( 1/4 turn) and set the rockers for the next cylinder in the firing order.



After the second cylinder in the firing order turn the crank 90 degrees and set the third cylinder in the firing order.



Repeat this procedure for the remaining cylinders, one for each 90 degrees of crank rotation



ending with the last cylinder in the firing order.





After the last cylinder in the firing order's rockers are set turn the crank until the timing marks



line up with 10 degrees BEFORE top dead center (BTDC).





Install the distributor aligning the rotor with the cap location that you want to put number 1 spark plug wire.



Line up the magnetic pickup with the reluctor and then rotate the distributor opposite the direction of rotation



JUST SLIGHTLY until the points are BARELY misaligned. Tighten down the distributor.



You are now pre-timed for 10 degrees Before TDC. And the engine should start right up!