Let’s talk VOLTAGE

[Blanco_obs]

Could be power wire, which extra ground paths wouldn't help. Could also be where you added the ground paths, the quality of cable, or corrosion in the wires. When I added my 225A alternator, I replaced the body ground with 1/0ga, and ran an additional 1/0ga to my alternator mount. Tested frame ground and found it to be fine. Also ran 1/0ga from alienation power to positive battery terminal and replaced main power cable to fuse box with 4ga. My dash still reads around 12V while running at times. I know it's wrong, the dash is really only good at letting you know if the battery is dead IMO.

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Alienation ?


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[east302]

Any other suggestions on where to run the grounds ?


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You checked voltage from alternator post to battery ground?

I’m with Rawb, the dash gauge should not be trusted for an accurate measurement.

 

[RawbDidIt]

Alienation ?


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Alternator, my auto correct is all messed up, new phone. Don't just put grounds wherever, put grounds from the negative terminal to the body, frame, and engine. All additional grounds you place should be placed on bare metal, and use grease to coat it after the connection is made to prevent corrosion. The end of it should always connect directly to the negative terminal. Putting a ground between others components introduces an unknown link, could be a good ground, could be crap.

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[Blanco_obs]

Gotcha. I’ll double check my wiring like I said. I just can’t imagine it being the altenator.

 

[RawbDidIt]

Gotcha. I’ll double check my wiring like I said. I just can’t imagine it being the altenator.

Whole process should tell you exactly where the problem is. Do the entire diagnosis, don't stop just because you spot an issue, there may be more than one issue

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[AK49BWL]

Don't forget there's a fusible link in the power line between the battery and the alternator... Could be failing. Don't just update the grounds, go after power too. Otherwise why even bother upgrading the alternator, the factory wiring does good to hold up to what it comes with OEM. Only other thing I can think of is check the battery light bulb in the cluster, and the resistor on the back of the cluster's circuit sheet for proper ohmage. The exciter wire may not be getting its signal to the alternator consistently.

 

[Blanco_obs]

Don't forget there's a fusible link in the power line between the battery and the alternator... Could be failing. Don't just update the grounds, go after power too. Otherwise why even bother upgrading the alternator, the factory wiring does good to hold up to what it comes with OEM. Only other thing I can think of is check the battery light bulb in the cluster, and the resistor on the back of the cluster's circuit sheet for proper ohmage. The exciter wire may not be getting its signal to the alternator consistently.

The power cables are new on the batter to starter to altenator. I don’t remember if I replaced the wire to the fuse block or not.

 

[RawbDidIt]

The power cables are new on the batter to starter to altenator. I don’t remember if I replaced the wire to the fuse block or not.

What did you use to replace it? What gage wire, and is it solid copper?

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[Blanco_obs]

I used the oem stuff. I work at a dealership. I looked at schematics just to see if there was any wire I missed. And we had them in stock and discounted so I said screw it


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[Blanco_obs]

Update. Went to work to unload tools. Grabbed my multimeter checked voltage at altenator and negative. 14.6v. Put turn signals and stuff on and battery gauge was doings it’s voltage twitch or w.e it’s called and multimeter read a consistent 14.6 volts. Opinions ?


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