Let’s talk VOLTAGE

[Blanco_obs]

Also my only other concern is I had this issue before I even converted anything to led. It was worse until I added my grounds.


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[RawbDidIt]

Okay random testing I did. Battery voltage 14+ when running. Altenator 14.6 running with load at idle. Battery feed cable to fuse 14.3 with no loads 14.3 with loads. Checked fuses with loads 13.7 14.1 without loads. Went inside truck to checked gauge fuse. 14.04 no loads 13.79 with loads


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What ground are you checking voltage against? Try testing difference against negative terminal (I use a set of jumper cables to create a better point to check against). If the voltage increases, it's a ground issue. I'm leaning that way since you did say that the extra grounds helped. I would recommend upgrading the main power line, a 0.3v drop doesn't sound like much, but upgrading to at least 4ga solid copper cable will help. You may have some corrosion inside the ground cable, sometimes it creeps inside the insulation. Resistance check will confirm or rule that out.

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[alpinecrick]

If both battery and alternator voltage check out, the problem is likely the power supply to the main distribution block in the engine bay (at least that's how it's set up in my 97, follow the main power cable over the radiator shroud and check resistance between where it ends and the positive battery terminal. If that checks out, you have a bad ground somewhere, add one to the body frame on the fender wall, and another to the frame near the starter, and you should be good.

It seems the (6 gauge?) cable that goes to the power block is bare minimum for 96+ trucks. Plus every one of those cables I have checked in the last decade had a pretty significant voltage loss, even ones that did not show any signs of corrosion.

A ground cable from the alternator/alternator bracket to the battery, and replacing the loooong cable to the power block with a heavier gauge cable are two of the better upgrades for the electrical system under the hood.

Call it the the Big 1 1/2..........

 

[Blanco_obs]

So I drove it today I don’t drive often it’s just to get me to work. But I left my multimeter inside my truck. And as I was driving I decided to hook it up. Ground being dash support. And power being the power at my amp which runs from the fuse block. It was steady 14.36 then as I drove went to 13.8-13.9. Put a load on like my headlights. And it would go 13.7 then back to 13.8 then I put my turn signal and it would go 13.6-13.8 and only the passenger side would get hyper flash when I applied the brake. Once I was off the brake it went back to normal flash. So then I get home and watch the multimeter and it went back to 14.3 . Got irritated that this is even happening cause I went the longest time without this issue occurring again.


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[RawbDidIt]

So I drove it today I don’t drive often it’s just to get me to work. But I left my multimeter inside my truck. And as I was driving I decided to hook it up. Ground being dash support. And power being the power at my amp which runs from the fuse block. It was steady 14.36 then as I drove went to 13.8-13.9. Put a load on like my headlights. And it would go 13.7 then back to 13.8 then I put my turn signal and it would go 13.6-13.8 and only the passenger side would get hyper flash when I applied the brake. Once I was off the brake it went back to normal flash. So then I get home and watch the multimeter and it went back to 14.3 . Got irritated that this is even happening cause I went the longest time without this issue occurring again.


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Your amp is hooked up to the 6ga that goes from the battery to the OEM fuse box, or you have a dedicated cable from the battery to a fuse block specifically for your amp? If you're tapping that 6ga line to power your amp, that's probably your problem.

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[Blanco_obs]

Your amp is hooked up to the 6ga that goes from the battery to the OEM fuse box, or you have a dedicated cable from the battery to a fuse block specifically for your amp? If you're tapping that 6ga line to power your amp, that's probably your problem.

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No I didn’t tap it. So on the fuse block there is a threaded bolt that sticks up. I just tapped it on there. I don’t believe I interrupted the factory wire. I mean I didn’t unbolt it or anything lol.


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[RawbDidIt]

No I didn’t tap it. So on the fuse block there is a threaded bolt that sticks up. I just tapped it on there. I don’t believe I interrupted the factory wire. I mean I didn’t unbolt it or anything lol.


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That's a problem, even if it isn't the problem. That stud pulls power from that 6ga power cable from the battery, you need a larger cable if you're going to do that, and it's recommended that you have a fuse within 12 inches of the power source when you add that big of a load to the system. Remove that load from the system and retest. 6ga is enough for the oem system, but a 4x100W usual requires a dedicated 4ga wire to it, that 6ga wire is not designed to handle the OEM equipment plus an amp.

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[Blanco_obs]

Okay. I’ll try it tomorrow lol. Pray that’s the fix. Lol


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[RawbDidIt]

Okay. I’ll try it tomorrow lol. Pray that’s the fix. Lol


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I can almost guarantee that's your problem. Retest at your alternator once you have your amp hooked up properly. If your alt doesn't have enough power for the system, your entire system will suffer fluctuating voltage once your amp has free access to power. General rule is to add the same amount of extra alternator output as is recommended to fuse it at. What kind of amp is it?

Side note, your amp is fused, right?

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[alpinecrick]

6ga is enough for the oem system, but a 4x100W usual requires a dedicated 4ga wire to it, that 6ga wire is not designed to handle the OEM equipment plus an amp.

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I'm sticking to my story!.........