K2500 Lower Control Arm Bolt Removal

[LoCascio_Inc]

I’m in the middle of rebuilding my entire front end. I have forged LCAs. The rearward bolt of both LCAs has the head facing forward and cannot be removed without contacting the axle shaft flanges. Is removing the front axle a required step for removing the LCAs or were my bolts installed backward by a previous owner?

I just shaved one edge of the bolt head down (1/4” or so) so it could slide past the axle flange. Thinking about getting new bolts and installing them with the heads facing the rear.

 

[mr_josh]

I just went through this. I was able to sneak the passenger side bolt past the axle flange by just touching one of the flats on the bolt head with a Dremel and grinder bit. But there was no way the driver's side would go without removing more than I felt comfortable from the bolt head. I ended up taking off the diff skid plate and putting a floor jack under it. I was able to put enough upward pressure on it (EDIT: By "it" I mean the differential, itself, if that wasn't clear) to get clearance (though I did have to shave a little off of one flat of the bolt head). It is possible that my front diff bushings are more flexible / garbage than yours.

If memory serves, the factory service manual specifically calls out that the bolts be inserted from the inside, not the reverse (so, from the front for the rear bolt and from the rear for the front bolt). I don't know if that is for ease of assembly or functionality purposes (I can't imagine how it would impact the functionality of the bushing to insert the bolt from the other side but...?)

 

[LoCascio_Inc]

I've asked two mechanical engineers in the automotive R&D field about installing the new bolts "backwards" and neither could foresee any issues with bolt or bushing integrity with this particular application.

I'm trying to wrap my head around why they would be installed that way from the factory when the opposite direction is 100% easier to service. The only thing I can think of is that the factory orientation makes it impossible for the bolts to completely back out and have the LCAs come loose from the frame on the highway? Seems like a castle nut and cotter pin could solve that concern though with the bolts installed "backward".

 

[mr_josh]

Where there is a seemingly arbitrary requirement like that, I always assume that there is something about the factory assembly process that makes it a fraction of a second faster to do it that way than another. Why they call it out in the service manual is beyond me. Put 'em in "backward", it'll be fine.

 

[mr_josh]

But, then again...

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[LoCascio_Inc]

Jesus Christ... My Cummins swap doesn’t leave enough clearance above the front diff to push the axle up out of the way. Removing the front axle for this seems like an outrageous servicing requirement. Now I’m thinking about just reusing my new 5 sided bolts...

 

[Aparke4]

Jesus Christ... My Cummins swap doesn’t leave enough clearance above the front diff to push the axle up out of the way. Removing the front axle for this seems like an outrageous servicing requirement. Now I’m thinking about just reusing my new 5 sided bolts...

Yes- this is what I did when I installed my lift. Then, ended up 5/8 getting grade 8 zinc coated bolts to match all the hardware that came with the lift. I have nuts on the inside and no problems so far. Its a little tight to the axle flange but good by my standards.

 

[454cid]

I think I pulled the shafts out, but I think that can be dicey as something inside can droo?

 

[alpinecrick]

I'm assuming this is a K1500........

I've never worked on forged LCA's on a K1500 but for stamped LCA's it's not a big deal to unbolt the 6 bolts of the axle flange and move the axle away an inch or so. The biggest pain of removing the drivers side axle completely is the sway bar link is in the way. On the passenger side the link doesn't interfere with removing the axle.

If rebuilding the front end--especially if the LCA bushings and/or ball joints are being replaced, I take the axles out. The knuckle is going to have to come off anyway.

I just went out and looked at my 96--which has had the LCA'a off twice--I have the bolts in the factory direction. But the first time I think I installed the bolts in the opposite direction of factory.

 

[454cid]

I'm assuming this is a K1500........

I've never worked on forged LCA's on a K1500 but for stamped LCA's it's not a big deal to unbolt the 6 bolts of the axle flange..
.

I think he's talking about the axle shafts coming out of the axle housing not the CV shafts.