Issues with rough country 2-3 inch lift

[Hipster]

Rough country is the only kit still in the market and I've been strongly considering buying one. But I'm going to be royally PO'd if after a full weekend's work that the alignment shop can't get it right.
So, what's a guy to do?!? Sounds like there may be some tricks to install RC's right.
Or, 1) Build my own kit? Yikes. I'm a parts monkey mechanic with a day job. Not confident that I could design one well.
Or 2) take it to a suspension shop that specializes in lifts and spend x3 $$$.

Best of luck to the OP!!

We're talking about the the 2-3' control arm/crank key kits and not the 4 or 6" full drop kits. The best way to lift these trucks was sorted out 30 years ago. Several manufacturers still produce a 4" drop kit.

 

[boy&hisdogs]

We're talking about the the 2-3' control arm/crank key kits and not the 4 or 6" full drop kits. The best way to lift these trucks was sorted out 30 years ago. Several manufacturers still produce a 4" drop kit.

This. Those 2-3 kits might be a bit cheaper up front but are nothing but trouble in the long run. Sure you save a few hundred bucks on the kit, but you still have your truck cranked to the moon, which means a rough ride and wearing out front end parts faster. Just having one or two balls joint replaced by a shop costs as much as the difference between the 2-3 and the 4-6 kits, and with the 4-6 kit you get a full diff drop and get to maintain stock front end geometry.

 

[Hipster]

This. Those 2-3 kits might be a bit cheaper up front but are nothing but trouble in the long run. Sure you save a few hundred bucks on the kit, but you still have your truck cranked to the moon, which means a rough ride and wearing out front end parts faster. Just having one or two balls joint replaced by a shop costs as much as the difference between the 2-3 and the 4-6 kits, and with the 4-6 kit you get a full diff drop and get to maintain stock front end geometry.

Agree, if cranked the full 3 inches the ride quality becomes the other issue.

 

[Anubis]

This. Those 2-3 kits might be a bit cheaper up front but are nothing but trouble in the long run. Sure you save a few hundred bucks on the kit, but you still have your truck cranked to the moon, which means a rough ride and wearing out front end parts faster. Just having one or two balls joint replaced by a shop costs as much as the difference between the 2-3 and the 4-6 kits, and with the 4-6 kit you get a full diff drop and get to maintain stock front end geometry.

The 4 to 6 inch kits are definitely better but I didn’t want a monster truck lift or the bulk of all the suspension brackets that bolt on. I have the 2-3 kit installed on my truck and surprisingly the ride is very good. I don’t have the torsion bars “ cranked to the moon“ but yet have enough lift for my taste.

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[MMcc]

but I didn’t want a monster truck

I'm with Anubis. 2" or 3" would be perfect for my suburban overlander. I'm running 33s and that's as big as I intend to go (any bigger, and I'd have to regear).
So, what do to? I guess a conversation with a custom suspension shop is step one.

...Curious about Winda Liqqer's idea here:

Has anyone else considered installing the more invasive/expensive 4” lift by Rough Country and decranking down to 3”?? I’m no young man and don’t need a lot of lift but enough to assist in clearing 35s, been considering this move a long time.

 

[Schu3507]

I'm with Anubis. 2" or 3" would be perfect for my suburban overlander. I'm running 33s and that's as big as I intend to go (any bigger, and I'd have to regear).
So, what do to? I guess a conversation with a custom suspension shop is step one.

...Curious about Winda Liqqer's idea here:

FWIW...I did a 4 inch tuff country lift on my Burb 2500. Its not "monster truck" and alignment was all in the green immediately. No hassle and ride quality is better then stock or as good. Yes it was a $1400 kit with shocks and takes some cutting drilling and exhaust fab but as they cry once.

 

[Timboslice]

W

I spy with my little eye, that the lower A-Arm is nearly level.
When the torsion bar keys are cranked up, the short upper A-Arm will travel in a tighter ark that the lower, thus "pulling" the steering knuckle back in at the top and kinda correcting the camber problem.
However, if you're happy with the ride height, you can replace the upper A-Arm bushings with an eccentric (off center) set that will effectively "shorten" the length of the upper A-Arm.

I'll definitely be looking into those. I'd like to bring the ride height down to stay away from the bumps. Thanks!