Yes, clean out the EGR passage, replace the EGR gasket, and verify that the EGR valve and solenoid are working properly.
Yes, get the Dorman replacement for the crappy OEM quick-connect on the heater supply hose. For once, the Dorman replacement is FAR BETTER than the Genuine GM part.
Yes, make sure that the ground wires are in place, not corroded at the ends. I need to do this with my truck. Thanks for the reminder. You'll also want to look at the ground wires attached to the thermostat housing bolts.
Replace the throttle body-to-manifold gasket. Be sure to get the correct one--there's several versions.
Verify that the distributor gear, and the distributor bushings are in good condition. Make sure the distributor cap 'n' rotor are in good condition. Check the plug wires, and the coil wire for resistance. When you put it all back together, make sure to use the real, live, "Official GM" plug wire routing.
I'd pull one or more lifters out to inspect for excess wear. The bottom of the lifter--the surface that contacts the cam lobe--should be slightly convex. If it's worn flat or concave, you need a cam and lifters, too.
How old is your coolant? How old are the radiator and heater hoses? Since the cooling system has to be opened-up anyway, now is a perfect time to flush the coolant and refresh the hoses. Make it easy on yourself--pull the block drain plug on the left side, and the knock sensor on the right side in addition to the draincock on the radiator, so that you drain ALL the coolant and flush water. I usually replace the iron/steel block drain plugs with brass draincocks on engines I'm keeping. Torque the knock sensor to spec when re-installing.
There's a brace from the serpentine belt tensioner to the manifold. You'll have to loosen the tensioner to get the brace out of the way. Perfect time to replace the serpentine belt, idler pulley, and tensioner as needed. My tensioner is original, but the idler pulley and belt have been replaced more than once.
If you're using the original TBI intake manifold, be absolutely certain to use TBI intake gaskets. The rear coolant holes should be blocked-off except for a steam-hole.
Stick the intake gaskets down to the head with any one of a dozen different gasket sealers. Gasgacinch, High Tack, Copper Coat, Indian Head, Hylomar, Permatex Aviation, and the list goes on and on. Don't stick the gaskets down with silicone.
Yes, get the Dorman replacement for the crappy OEM quick-connect on the heater supply hose. For once, the Dorman replacement is FAR BETTER than the Genuine GM part.
Yes, make sure that the ground wires are in place, not corroded at the ends. I need to do this with my truck. Thanks for the reminder. You'll also want to look at the ground wires attached to the thermostat housing bolts.
Replace the throttle body-to-manifold gasket. Be sure to get the correct one--there's several versions.
Verify that the distributor gear, and the distributor bushings are in good condition. Make sure the distributor cap 'n' rotor are in good condition. Check the plug wires, and the coil wire for resistance. When you put it all back together, make sure to use the real, live, "Official GM" plug wire routing.
I'd pull one or more lifters out to inspect for excess wear. The bottom of the lifter--the surface that contacts the cam lobe--should be slightly convex. If it's worn flat or concave, you need a cam and lifters, too.
How old is your coolant? How old are the radiator and heater hoses? Since the cooling system has to be opened-up anyway, now is a perfect time to flush the coolant and refresh the hoses. Make it easy on yourself--pull the block drain plug on the left side, and the knock sensor on the right side in addition to the draincock on the radiator, so that you drain ALL the coolant and flush water. I usually replace the iron/steel block drain plugs with brass draincocks on engines I'm keeping. Torque the knock sensor to spec when re-installing.
There's a brace from the serpentine belt tensioner to the manifold. You'll have to loosen the tensioner to get the brace out of the way. Perfect time to replace the serpentine belt, idler pulley, and tensioner as needed. My tensioner is original, but the idler pulley and belt have been replaced more than once.
If you're using the original TBI intake manifold, be absolutely certain to use TBI intake gaskets. The rear coolant holes should be blocked-off except for a steam-hole.
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Stick the intake gaskets down to the head with any one of a dozen different gasket sealers. Gasgacinch, High Tack, Copper Coat, Indian Head, Hylomar, Permatex Aviation, and the list goes on and on. Don't stick the gaskets down with silicone.
When it was me, I used Permatex "The Right Stuff", which I think is polyurethane not silicone. It's fine to overlap the gaskets with either silicone or The Right Stuff at the China Wall, but don't use either one as a gasket adhesive.
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