One other thing to just remember, you wouldn't really want to run a 4l60e with a 454 or anything more powerful than a standard 350 vortec or TBI. While it would run, it's quite a strain on a 4l60e and you'd be best served with, at least, a 4l80e
I Need Some Input On Engine Swap?!?
- Thread starter JoeTahoe
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
mpyusko
OBS Enthusiast
In the interest of providing valuable insight to this thread, I will explain what I just did for my engine swap.
I just replaced my aging 190,000+ mile Vortec 454 in my 1996 K2500 Suburban with a brand new GM Goodwrench crate engine. While most of it is pretty straightforward there were a couple key issues that I ran into. First off I found the easiest way to do it was to pull the front drive shaft because chances are it is seized like it was on mine, and to do that you need to remove/disconnect the rear drive shaft to slide it rear, which is simple 4 bolts on the rear pinion and then the slip yoke makes it easy. Once you remove both drive shafts you can disconnect the tranny mount, both motor mounts (and the brackets for them on the frame especially), then slide the whole assembly (engine, transmission, transfer case and all) forward to 2 - 3 inches to make removing the transmission to engine mounting bolts much much easier. You will need to have the radiator the power steering pump, alternator, smog pump, a/c, water pump and bracketry off the front of the engine give enough space. (Leave the lines for the AC and power steering connected just swing them off to the side and wire them out of your way.) Once you remove the 6 bolts from the transmission, the six nuts off the exhaust manifolds and pop the assembly apart about a half inch. You should be able to hoist the engine straight up. The fuel lines come up on the backside of the engine on top of the bell housing so be careful not to pull on those before you disconnect them.
The only other major quirk about the project is the flexplate. There are six bolts that hold it in place; 5 larger circular holes and 1 small elliptical hole. When reassembling to the torque converter, put the bolt in the elliptical hole first to locate it and leave it slightly loosened. Then go around and start the five other bolts and snug them up. Lastly come back to the first bolt, torque that then go around and torque the other 5.
I'm average build and was able to do the entire swap without jacking the truck. Waaaaaaay easier than any car I've ever done.
Note. On the back side of the 454 there are 7 bolt holes for the bell-housing. Only 6 are used with the 4L80E. The top center bolt just below the distributor is not used.
Note: A brand new engine with empty lines, empty cooler, empty crank requires 8½ quarts of oil and I think 7½ gallons of MIXED antifreeze. (I have rear heat too)
I took photos of my whole swap including 360° around it on the stand to account for every wire, bracket, hose and line location and routing. If you are attempting this same swap, PM me and I would be happy to send you photos to help you along. Good Luck.[emoji6]
Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
I just replaced my aging 190,000+ mile Vortec 454 in my 1996 K2500 Suburban with a brand new GM Goodwrench crate engine. While most of it is pretty straightforward there were a couple key issues that I ran into. First off I found the easiest way to do it was to pull the front drive shaft because chances are it is seized like it was on mine, and to do that you need to remove/disconnect the rear drive shaft to slide it rear, which is simple 4 bolts on the rear pinion and then the slip yoke makes it easy. Once you remove both drive shafts you can disconnect the tranny mount, both motor mounts (and the brackets for them on the frame especially), then slide the whole assembly (engine, transmission, transfer case and all) forward to 2 - 3 inches to make removing the transmission to engine mounting bolts much much easier. You will need to have the radiator the power steering pump, alternator, smog pump, a/c, water pump and bracketry off the front of the engine give enough space. (Leave the lines for the AC and power steering connected just swing them off to the side and wire them out of your way.) Once you remove the 6 bolts from the transmission, the six nuts off the exhaust manifolds and pop the assembly apart about a half inch. You should be able to hoist the engine straight up. The fuel lines come up on the backside of the engine on top of the bell housing so be careful not to pull on those before you disconnect them.
The only other major quirk about the project is the flexplate. There are six bolts that hold it in place; 5 larger circular holes and 1 small elliptical hole. When reassembling to the torque converter, put the bolt in the elliptical hole first to locate it and leave it slightly loosened. Then go around and start the five other bolts and snug them up. Lastly come back to the first bolt, torque that then go around and torque the other 5.
I'm average build and was able to do the entire swap without jacking the truck. Waaaaaaay easier than any car I've ever done.
Note. On the back side of the 454 there are 7 bolt holes for the bell-housing. Only 6 are used with the 4L80E. The top center bolt just below the distributor is not used.
Note: A brand new engine with empty lines, empty cooler, empty crank requires 8½ quarts of oil and I think 7½ gallons of MIXED antifreeze. (I have rear heat too)
I took photos of my whole swap including 360° around it on the stand to account for every wire, bracket, hose and line location and routing. If you are attempting this same swap, PM me and I would be happy to send you photos to help you along. Good Luck.[emoji6]
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
