Heavy Duty Shock Suggestions for 1999 C2500 For Hauling Truck Camper

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Westieterrier

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POSTSCRIPT: I cannot thank you gentlemen enough for all of your thoughtful insights here. Honestly, it wouldn't have turned out this good without you. So, I successfully installed the KYB Monomax's front and rear today on a day off from work (I'm not a tradesman by profession, so it took 6 hours with hand tools) and they are so far really great. The rears raised the sitting height by 3/4" and the front by ½". To answer a few questions posed earlier: my aluminum rims are Ultra, a brand I've never heard of, but they are stamped "Made in the USA"; 16 X 8 T85 aluminum (one-piece milled, I believe); and are rated for 3,000 lbs each. I think they'll clean up nice too with some work, so they're gonna stay (esp. bec. US made). The overseas tires, however, are rated for 2400 lbs and are 4-ply, so they'll have to go. Rears first; probably BFG A/T in the biggest size that will fit an 8-inch rim.

I estimate my 1988 Camper wet weight at 3,500 lbs because the orig owner, a gentleman farmer out in Banks, Oregon, told me that is what it weighed when he checked it decades ago while it was fully loaded with his large family's gear. My truck weighs in at 5,150 lbs. on the tractor trailer scales. With the dirt bike out front I know I will be pushing a bit over the 8,600 lbs. GVWR, but . . . I'm a standard cab 2Wd 2500 with the 10.5 rear, 8-lug wheels, and soon-to-install One-Ton factory helper springs, so reasonable in my non-expert opinion. No front diff. or transfer case, etc. and only two doors with zero options gives me this leeway. The truck is so much fun to drive that I'm grabbing the keys all the time instead of my prudent daily ride. Man, it's expensive on gas, though !! But so damn comfortable and easy to drive (not kidding here!).

A few notes on install: make your life easier by removing the front wheels and fender-well splash guard before tackling the difficult 1/4" threaded rod that holds the unit in place; be wary of the lower bolts as they can snap in the control arms (did not happen to me); the rears can be done with both wheels on; un-lifted; and the spare in place. But for God's sake, strap the rear shock in the closed position before trying to wrestle them in place, otherwise it's like bench-pressing 200 lbs with your one palm while lying on concrete-- not fun, even if you're strong enough like myself. Lastly, while you're on your back, grab your grease gun and hit every Zerk you see-- my driveshaft is in two pieces (WTF??) and there was even one there between the two shafts (btw, what is that so?). A few random pics below. Thanks again guys-- this forum is truly awesome.

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HotWheelsBurban

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If it's like the driveshafts in two of my square body Burbs, that center grease fitting is for the carrier bearing slipyoke. I would shoot a few trigger pulls of grease in this one when I greased the front end on these trucks. There should be a vent hole in the end of the yoke but it may be full of dirt or grime. Some trucks have the two piece driveshaft, it's more common on long beds or extended/ crew cabs because of the length. If a driveshaft is over a certain length it will whip and twist, that's what the carrier bearing assembly is designed to prevent, by making the shafts shorter. I'm sure one of our engineers can come up with a better explanation, but that is how it was explained to me!
 

GMCTruck

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Look in your glovebox at the RPO codes. What rear axle ratio do you have? GT4 = 3.73 GT5 = 4.10.
I wouldn't go too "big" with tires. Relative to stock, a larger diameter tire will have the effect of having a "taller" (or weaker) rear axle ratio. For example, if you have a 3.73 axle with 245/75R16 tires, changing to a 265/75R16 tire will be like having a 3.59 rear axle ratio. The larger the diameter tire, the less powerful the truck will feel. You can use online calculators to calculate effective rear axle ratio relative to tire size AND you can determine approximate engine RPMs vs speed. You will be moving around a lot of weight, possibly climbing hills, so you don't want a weak setup. BUT, you will probably be driving in DRIVE and not OVERDRIVE (i'm guessing) so engine RPM and speed become factors.
Some things to think about.
 

98chevy2500SS

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No way, I thought those wheels looked familiar! I've got the same set of 90's Ultra wheels on my 98, they also said Made in USA:

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Westieterrier

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Hey 98SS, that is one gorgeous truck! So, with several hours of work with scotchbrite pad and a polisher, I may be able to get my wheels looking as amazing as yours. I'm def. keeping them now!

GMC, yes, I have the 3.73 rear. I was thinking of going as wide as possible, not necessarily taller. With your comment in mind, I agree, it's counterproductive to go taller. Wider is still a good idea. I'd love to get 275's on the rim, though I need to do my research. I just drove the truck 3 hours tonight on a twisty state road (Portland to Hood River) and the new shocks make a difference for sure. The truck rides more firmly, and there's no bouncy-bounce anymore. It's a little taller too. Now I have to find a video from someone who has actually installed C3500 helper springs on a C2500. I like to see step by step instructions so I know ahead of time if brake lines, exhaust, etc. will have to be moved, as well as what brackets I need to source.

Anyone know of a spring manufacturer that DOES NOT make their products in China? Preferably USA too. Thanks everyone!
 

Carlaisle

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I have purchased springs from Stengel Brothers http://www.stengelbros.com/ in the past and they were good to deal with. I have no relation to them other than my satisfaction as a customer. I do not recall the brand name that was on the parts I received from them, but everything was made in USA.

I know the shock issue is moot at this point, so I share the following for any future readers who may run across this thread. I ran the Bilstein 4600 shocks on a one ton...for less than 50 miles. They were fine when it was empty, but loaded they were completely incapable of controlling the vehicle. I have heard many people heap praise upon Bilstein over the years, but my experience differed. Maybe I just had the luck to receive the one set quality control missed. Whatever the cause, I threw them in the trash and installed some Monroe Gas Magnum shocks which worked (and continue to work) great.
 

Westieterrier

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Again, for added Heavy Duty performance and Safety concerns, and if it is in your budget, you could add
1 PAIR TIMBREN GMRC25HD REAR SUSPENSION ENHANCEMENT SYSTEM SPACERS GMRCK25S at the cost of $225.00 & 1 PAIR TIMBREN GMFC1588H FRONT SUSPENSION ENHANCEMENT SYSTEM SPACERS GMRTT35C at the expense of $333.00 (prices could vary depending on your location) if you so desire. Good luck with your decision and happy safe trails.
Hey VP, do you have experience with the Timbren's on your rig? I just noticed that they are made in Canada and seem like an elegant solution. If so, can I PM you about them? Thanks man. P
 

Caman96

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I have purchased springs from Stengel Brothers http://www.stengelbros.com/ in the past and they were good to deal with. I have no relation to them other than my satisfaction as a customer. I do not recall the brand name that was on the parts I received from them, but everything was made in USA.

I know the shock issue is moot at this point, so I share the following for any future readers who may run across this thread. I ran the Bilstein 4600 shocks on a one ton...for less than 50 miles. They were fine when it was empty, but loaded they were completely incapable of controlling the vehicle. I have heard many people heap praise upon Bilstein over the years, but my experience differed. Maybe I just had the luck to receive the one set quality control missed. Whatever the cause, I threw them in the trash and installed some Monroe Gas Magnum shocks which worked (and continue to work) great.
I’m sure there good springs but the 5/1 88-98 springs are made in Mexico. And at $530.00 I’d go with these guys. IMO

Or:
https://www.autoandtrucksprings.com...2wd-4wd-heavy-duty-rear-leaf-spring-22-797hd/
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