Heat and clicking brake after replacement

[eluwak]

Ok, I need some helpful suggestions to figure out what's going on.

I just replaced all brake components from the hoses our on the front end. I also put in new bearings since I had to redo them anyway to put on the new rotors. I used all AC Delco Professional Durastop components including the ceramic brake pads. I also flushed the brake fluid all around since I was due for it.

I have three problems:
1. It seems like the hubs are pretty warm. I can only hold my hand on them for ~5 seconds before the burning sense kicks in. Both sides are like this.
2. There is a sharp clicking coming from the driver's side when the brakes are applied moderately at lower speeds (<35 MPH or so).
3. I still get a pretty good pull to the left when braking hard.

Things I have done:
- Pulled the wheels and calipers to inspect rotors and re-tighten caliper bolts.
- Re-adjusted castle nut on driver's side spindle.
- Checked for play on both wheels.
- Checked rotors were spinning freely when calipers were removed.
- Made sure there was silicon on the guides and the top contact where the inboard pads move.

Things I have observed:
- The caliper guide bolts on the driver side don't line up perfectly it seems. They are off a hair, but still go in ok.
- The truck stops much better than before.
- Before the change I had a warped rotor pulsation on the driver's side that was like what I have felt in several cars before.
- There is a very minor suspension play on the driver's side when you push/pull the top of the wheel hard only.
- The inboard brake pads do not seem to retain well into the piston like I would have expected.

I haven't ever had an alignment done, but I'm wondering if I need to look at some of the bushings that hold the front end together too?

 

[michael hurd]

You have a myriad of issues.

Is this on your C2500?

Pull to one side while braking can be caused by all sorts of issues, tire pressure, one rear wheel grabbing ( oil / brake fluid on rear shoes ) or a caliper that does not want to retract properly.

I have seen brake hoses that have collapsed the inner liner, and when you step on the brakes, it will not allow brake fluid back to the master cylinder. ( brakes remain on with some residual pressure )

When packing the wheel bearings, it is critical to get the entire space between the rollers, outer and inner race full of grease.

Did you adjust the spindle nut too tight?

 

[90halfton]

You have a myriad of issues.

Is this on your C2500?

Pull to one side while braking can be caused by all sorts of issues, tire pressure, one rear wheel grabbing ( oil / brake fluid on rear shoes ) or a caliper that does not want to retract properly.

I have seen brake hoses that have collapsed the inner liner, and when you step on the brakes, it will not allow brake fluid back to the master cylinder. ( brakes remain on with some residual pressure )

When packing the wheel bearings, it is critical to get the entire space between the rollers, outer and inner race full of grease.

Did you adjust the spindle nut too tight?

Was gonna say brake line. Has happened to me. Twice

 

[eluwak]

You have a myriad of issues.

Is this on your C2500?

Yes

Pull to one side while braking can be caused by all sorts of issues, tire pressure, one rear wheel grabbing ( oil / brake fluid on rear shoes ) or a caliper that does not want to retract properly.

I have seen brake hoses that have collapsed the inner liner, and when you step on the brakes, it will not allow brake fluid back to the master cylinder. ( brakes remain on with some residual pressure )

I was thinking brake line, which is why I replaced them to start with. It helped with the shiftiness when braking, but a hard braking is still pulling to the left. I'm 90% certain its the front brakes because it pulls the steering wheel pretty good. The pull is also only when applying the brakes. As soon as I let up it's straight as an arrow again. This was making me wonder if it was suspension/alignment related because of the front unload fixing it.

When packing the wheel bearings, it is critical to get the entire space between the rollers, outer and inner race full of grease.

Yeah, I made sure it was coming through pretty good.

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Did you adjust the spindle nut too tight?

That's what I was worried about at first, but when I loosened them it didn't help. It did seem to make the clicking worse though. I re-torqued the nuts to 12 ft-lbs and backed off to loose and adjusted for the cotter pin as instructed in the service manual. The rotors spin pretty well with the calipers removed, and there's no noticeable play when I shake the tires.

 

[Justin S]

Sounds like the rt caliper is seizing up. If it pulls to the left when braking, that means the right side isn't working as well.

 

[Justin S]

or i've seen the hoses get pinched where the little bracket is supposed to hold it in place just above the rotor. You can take a flat head and pry it open so there is no pressure on the hose

 

[eluwak]

Thanks, but the hoses look pretty good.

I've put a couple hundred miles on them now and the pulling & clicking have nearly disappeared. I'm not sure what was going on still, but I'll keep an eye on it for a while longer. I don't normally drive the suburban more than once a week, so I'll make sure to keep driving it for another few hundred miles.