Fuel tank liners/rust prevention (non gmt-400)

[termite]

I've got an Allis Chalmers D-17 that is in need of some gas tank cleaning and rust treatment. I know there are kits to clean and line the tank with a chemical (redkote, another from steiner tractor, etc.) I've also kicked around the idea of washing it out with klean strip metal prep and letting it go. Its made it ~60 years as it is.

My question, have any of you dealt with similar situations and what ended up being the long-term solution? New tank is out of the question as I've not been able to source one and the current doesn't leak.

 

[RichLo]

Yes as a matter of fact, this past summer my gas tank on my 1939 Allis B started leaking. I HATE tank liners with a passion, mainly because I am the one stuck trying to remove it 5, 10, 20 years after somebody else put it in there. They dont last.

What I did with my Allis is bought a couple scotch-brite flap wheels for an angle grinder and brought the tank down to bare metal about 6" or more around where the leak was. Cleaned it thoroughly with brake cleaner then acetone. Then to seal it I used 2-part epoxy to seal it from the outside. I used DP420, its expensive but its the industry standard for a lot of applications. JB weld would work too but may not last as long.

The beauty of this process is that if it ever starts leaking again just bring it back down and try something else... no digging around with needle nose pliers trying to peel paper thin rubber out of your tank.

Or you could always bring it somewhere that can back-fill the tank with argon and weld or braze it.

EDIT: I just re-read and saw your tank doesn't leak yet. My response it just for the tank liner part and to help if it does start leaking after you remove the rust.

 

[termite]

Yes as a matter of fact, this past summer my gas tank on my 1939 Allis B started leaking. I HATE tank liners with a passion, mainly because I am the one stuck trying to remove it 5, 10, 20 years after somebody else put it in there. They dont last.

What I did with my Allis is bought a couple scotch-brite flap wheels for an angle grinder and brought the tank down to bare metal about 6" or more around where the leak was. Cleaned it thoroughly with brake cleaner then acetone. Then to seal it I used 2-part epoxy to seal it from the outside. I used DP420, its expensive but its the industry standard for a lot of applications. JB weld would work too but may not last as long.

The beauty of this process is that if it ever starts leaking again just bring it back down and try something else... no digging around with needle nose pliers trying to peel paper thin rubber out of your tank.

Or you could always bring it somewhere that can back-fill the tank with argon and weld or braze it.

Aside from rust sediment inside the tank, its intact with no pinholes or weeps. Just wanting to hinder more rust inside of it as long as possible, without plugging the bowl or carb.

 

[RichLo]

Yea, I just saw that as you typed that response. Read my EDIT on my last one, lol.

 

[termite]

Yea, I just saw that as you typed that response. Read my EDIT on my last one, lol.

I've also got my in-laws MF that does leak from somewhere, maybe the bowl itself? to deal with eventually. I figured that'll likely be a cut and weld repair depending upon what's leaking.

Going to try to find some 'research' on how steel thats been treated with phosphoric acid holds up to gas and its rust resistance.

 

[someotherguy]

I did a tank liner on my '63 Suburban decades ago, can't even remember what brand it was - may have possibly been a POR-15 brand product. I felt like I didn't have much choice because it had a LOT of pinholes but it was the only used tank I could find, and previous owner had destroyed the original backing into some hidden debris in a field. At this time (late 80's) finding a new tank for this application didn't exist AFAIK.

As you're already leaning towards, and RichLo sounds in agreement, I'd avoid the liner if at all possible. It's tricky to get "just right" and in the long run doesn't last anyway.

Richard

 

[termite]

I did a tank liner on my '63 Suburban decades ago, can't even remember what brand it was - may have possibly been a POR-15 brand product. I felt like I didn't have much choice because it had a LOT of pinholes but it was the only used tank I could find, and previous owner had destroyed the original backing into some hidden debris in a field. At this time (late 80's) finding a new tank for this application didn't exist AFAIK.

As you're already leaning towards, and RichLo sounds in agreement, I'd avoid the liner if at all possible. It's tricky to get "just right" and in the long run doesn't last anyway.

Richard

From what I was reading last night, including tds sheets for phosphoric acid preps, they all recommend some type of top coat or sealant following use. None of the liners I found claim any kind of warranty, just anecdotal success stories. I know a guy that has restored several classic tractors, I'll have to find his number and give him a call.

 

[RichLo]

Well, the 'Classic tractor farm-fix' is to put a few handfuls of roofing nails or something similar in the tank, pour some used engine oil in there and strap the tank to a tractor wheel and let it rattle around as you do daily chores. Empty out the nails and rinse with a half gallon of gasoline then re-install.

 

[termite]

Well, the 'Classic tractor farm-fix' is to put a few handfuls of roofing nails or something similar in the tank, pour some used engine oil in there and strap the tank to a tractor wheel and let it rattle around as you do daily chores. Empty out the nails and rinse with a half gallon of gasoline then re-install.

Don't think that wasn't the first thing to cross my mind... I'll waste too much time thinking about it and end up just cleaning it out and re-installing...

Unless I come up with a better idea first