frito-bandito
8 Lugs + 6 Tires + 4 Doors
I took the metal track out since it slides out, and I also went in from the top. I had the regulator in the halfway up position to slide the rollers in the track
Front door glass replacement - from above or below?
- Thread starter Pinger
- Start date
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alpinecrick
I'm Awesome
Pinger,
There's a series of excellent videos by 1a Auto:
One extra thing they don't talk about: The bottom track that is attached to the window itself can have grease built up at the ends where the rollers stop and make it difficult to push the roller past the end of the track to get the regulator/interior panel off. Reach down in there and clean that bottom track with solvent, wire brush or even peel up the grease with a screwdriver, it makes it a whole lot easier.
While you are that far into the door now is the time to thoroughly clean everything inside the door. Regulator gears, tracks, AND the door latch. The door latch is a bit tricky to remove, but pulling it out, soaking it in mineral spirits/paint thinner, cleaning it and regreasing it, resulted in my door latches operating--especially the key cylinder-- like new. I have now done this to my 96, 97, and 06 trucks and it made a significant improvement in their operation.
But I can't help you about those narrow-*** Roman roads.........
There's a series of excellent videos by 1a Auto:
xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media
One extra thing they don't talk about: The bottom track that is attached to the window itself can have grease built up at the ends where the rollers stop and make it difficult to push the roller past the end of the track to get the regulator/interior panel off. Reach down in there and clean that bottom track with solvent, wire brush or even peel up the grease with a screwdriver, it makes it a whole lot easier.
While you are that far into the door now is the time to thoroughly clean everything inside the door. Regulator gears, tracks, AND the door latch. The door latch is a bit tricky to remove, but pulling it out, soaking it in mineral spirits/paint thinner, cleaning it and regreasing it, resulted in my door latches operating--especially the key cylinder-- like new. I have now done this to my 96, 97, and 06 trucks and it made a significant improvement in their operation.
But I can't help you about those narrow-*** Roman roads.........
Pinger,
There's a series of excellent videos by 1a Auto:
xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media
One extra thing they don't talk about: The bottom track that is attached to the window itself can have grease built up at the ends where the rollers stop and make it difficult to push the roller past the end of the track to get the regulator/interior panel off. Reach down in there and clean that bottom track with solvent, wire brush or even peel up the grease with a screwdriver, it makes it a whole lot easier.
While you are that far into the door now is the time to thoroughly clean everything inside the door. Regulator gears, tracks, AND the door latch. The door latch is a bit tricky to remove, but pulling it out, soaking it in mineral spirits/paint thinner, cleaning it and regreasing it, resulted in my door latches operating--especially the key cylinder-- like new. I have now done this to my 96, 97, and 06 trucks and it made a significant improvement in their operation.
But I can't help you about those narrow-*** Roman roads.........
Great tip.. 100%right. I did it too and driver window works best lol. Rest of the doors I havent messed with the regulators but when I do I absolutely will clean and lube
frito-bandito
8 Lugs + 6 Tires + 4 Doors
My new windows roll up so much better after spray lubing everything!
Yeah I don't know about my Rears. When the time comes to replace those regulators. I wish they had a whole kit like the driver door.so you can just un bolt the old stuff and bolt in the new stuff.
frito-bandito
8 Lugs + 6 Tires + 4 Doors
Removing the rear regulators sucks major balls.
alpinecrick
I'm Awesome
Pinger,
I just replaced a door shell on my 96. The glass is removed from below. One of the window tracks is welded in, the other is bolted. Remove the bolts move the track aside and my glass slid out. I thought it would be more difficult than that having never done it before.
That's kind of how I envisage it. I need to lower the bottom track before I remove the big steel plate.
Glass is due here today but as I'm still replacing brake pipes - it'll be tomorrow before I get stuck in.
I work for a lubricant company - nothing gets reassembled without being generously lubed!
Well, it's in now - something of a relief! Thanks to all who contributed here - it was a big help. Slow and steady wins this race - everyone who cautioned me to just take it slowly did me a massive favour.
One casualty - the speaker. The connector part of it was already loose (I didn't realise it should be clipped to the speaker frame) and one of the thin wires broke and resisted my attempt to re-solder it. And a slight scratch on the outside of the glass - vertical - I suspect a shard of glass from the old window did it despite my best efforts to get all the broken glass out.
Greased everything before I reassembled and thought it was going really well until I couldn't get the connector to stretch to the window motor. When I'd 'lowered' the 'glass' before stripping the door the assembly had overshot lowest position because there was no glass to bottom out on the stop. Thus, the big steel plate when the rollers were in the window runner was at the wrong height,So had to connect the electrics with the plate alongside the door and raise the mechanism a touch. What worked for me was that it landed at the lowest window position where the rollers are closest to each other (raise further and they start to 'spread' making them awkward to fit into the channel). What also helped was removing the speaker - worth doing because at that height it clashes with door frame.
Anyway, it's done now (bar the door card as I've still a mirror to fit - due here next week). Can't say it's the easiest job I've ever done - it's pretty nerve wracking having the plate leaning out of the channel and fearing cracking the glass while reconnecting the electrics and the rest - 'don't rush it' is what needs to be held in mind.
Thanks everyone - my Suburban is now watertight again - and usable!
One casualty - the speaker. The connector part of it was already loose (I didn't realise it should be clipped to the speaker frame) and one of the thin wires broke and resisted my attempt to re-solder it. And a slight scratch on the outside of the glass - vertical - I suspect a shard of glass from the old window did it despite my best efforts to get all the broken glass out.
Greased everything before I reassembled and thought it was going really well until I couldn't get the connector to stretch to the window motor. When I'd 'lowered' the 'glass' before stripping the door the assembly had overshot lowest position because there was no glass to bottom out on the stop. Thus, the big steel plate when the rollers were in the window runner was at the wrong height,So had to connect the electrics with the plate alongside the door and raise the mechanism a touch. What worked for me was that it landed at the lowest window position where the rollers are closest to each other (raise further and they start to 'spread' making them awkward to fit into the channel). What also helped was removing the speaker - worth doing because at that height it clashes with door frame.
Anyway, it's done now (bar the door card as I've still a mirror to fit - due here next week). Can't say it's the easiest job I've ever done - it's pretty nerve wracking having the plate leaning out of the channel and fearing cracking the glass while reconnecting the electrics and the rest - 'don't rush it' is what needs to be held in mind.
Thanks everyone - my Suburban is now watertight again - and usable!
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