Front big brake upgrade, again...

[Badass69]

So which spindle are you using then? Is it the 2014+ K2XX piece or from a GMT900? I too want to go this route on my 94 2wd and I am installing a 6 lug 9.5" in the rear. If this actually works this will be an awesome upgrade to get some real brakes with a wheel pattern that hasn't gone the way of the dinosaur lol.

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[Chris Rogers]

From what I can gather it's the 99-06 that I am being told to use. There is an image somewhere in this thread that shows the spindle sans axle.
I had a chat with little shop mfg in TN about it and was told similar things. He backed it up with a Moog part number as well. For me I am doing 16" rotors on mine with a 4 pot willwood caliper. Little shop make the kit. Rears are a similar sized disc.

For me mine needs to be gutted anyway given its an 88 with all the light duty brakes under it and with 8-900 HP on tap those early brakes are not going to pull this thing up in a hurry.

 

[realsquash]

I'm using the 2014+ aluminum knuckle (and wheels) from a 4wd truck on my 2wd truck. The upper control arm fits without isuse, but the LCA does not. The lower bj doesn't fit the knuckle, so I am using a GM 2014+ bj. But you have to do some kind of fab to get the new balljoint working with the stock LCA. I bought some DJM LCAs to modify but I ended up designing my own upper and lower control arms so I can do it all how I want (coilovers, sway bar, rack and pinion, geometry, etc). I also did a 9.5" 14BSF rear axle swap, but I designed my own 3-link.

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[Badass69]

Interesting. I just want the brakes... wheels will be aftermarket anyway. Rear suspension I am probably staying stock although flipped with traction bars. .. just setting up for drag racing and nothing else. A 3 or 4 link is cool but we shall see as I don't want to fiddle with geometry forever to get it to actually hook.

You used the 4x4 rear end then I imagine and not the 2wd one? I may go that route if I could use the late model wheels as for cruising a set of the GM 22's would look pretty awesome. I know the GMT900 14 bolt from the 4x4 is near identical width to the GMT800 and we are swapping a 4x4 GMT900 14 bolt in my friends 2000 Chevy 2wd. Should then allow those rims offset to work UT that leaves the front. Getting the front wide enough just using gmt400 arms could be an issue... not a problem I guess if building your own control arms though.

Even those 18s (same rim as I have on my 2015) look pretty good... even if they are just hanging out in the wheel wells for now.

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[realsquash]

Interesting. I just want the brakes... wheels will be aftermarket anyway. Rear suspension I am probably staying stock although flipped with traction bars. .. just setting up for drag racing and nothing else. A 3 or 4 link is cool but we shall see as I don't want to fiddle with geometry forever to get it to actually hook.

You used the 4x4 rear end then I imagine and not the 2wd one? I may go that route if I could use the late model wheels as for cruising a set of the GM 22's would look pretty awesome. I know the GMT900 14 bolt from the 4x4 is near identical width to the GMT800 and we are swapping a 4x4 GMT900 14 bolt in my friends 2000 Chevy 2wd. Should then allow those rims offset to work UT that leaves the front. Getting the front wide enough just using gmt400 arms could be an issue... not a problem I guess if building your own control arms though.

Even those 18s (same rim as I have on my 2015) look pretty good... even if they are just hanging out in the wheel wells for now.

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I used a C2500 OBS rear axle, so it's the 2wd narrower model. I am setting the truck up with some big meats in the back, so the width doesn't affect me either way.

I have to look at my notes, but I think the front end width would be OK if you could fabricate the lower BJ stuff on the stock OBS arm.

 

[Badass69]

I was going to run aftermarket control arms either way so the stockers don't matter. I will run what tire I can fit in the stock wheel wells.. I wont cut mine... my truck is a time capsule with completely original Paint and no scratches in the bed paint lol. I just like the idea of the 99 up rims but with the 2wd rear you would need some major spacers to achieve that... the 4x4 works fine. I have a C2500 rear but I might scrap it for a 4x4 one if I can get my front width to work. I will have to see.

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[Chris Rogers]

Thanks guys!

 

[Gambles]

Did you chop up those djm lowers, or are they still in good shape, and which ones did you order? Also did you keep your oe knuckles? Might be interested in giving you some more money for your project and taking those off your hands.

 

[realsquash]

Did you chop up those djm lowers, or are they still in good shape, and which ones did you order? Also did you keep your oe knuckles? Might be interested in giving you some more money for your project and taking those off your hands.

I have all the stock parts, including the knuckles. They are pretty crusty, however. The DJM arms - completely unmodified. I pressed out the balljoint from one of the arms for testing, destroying the joint in the process. But that's it... If you're interested PM me your info and I'll get a UPS quote, and your best offer

 

[Chris Rogers]

I'm using the 2014+ aluminum knuckle (and wheels) from a 4wd truck on my 2wd truck. The upper control arm fits without isuse, but the LCA does not. The lower bj doesn't fit the knuckle, so I am using a GM 2014+ bj. But you have to do some kind of fab to get the new balljoint working with the stock LCA. I bought some DJM LCAs to modify but I ended up designing my own upper and lower control arms so I can do it all how I want (coilovers, sway bar, rack and pinion, geometry, etc). I also did a 9.5" 14BSF rear axle swap, but I designed my own 3-link.

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ok I follow this point. but I have a dumb question as well.

with the front spindles - are these the same from 99-2014 or did they change? if they are different at the 2014 body change then I will buy the later ones in 2wd with the correct stub axle. is the back spacing different between the 4wd and the 2wd?

thoughts?
(nice truck btw.)