Front big brake upgrade, again...

[Chris Rogers]

http://ssbrakes.com/c-624171-vehicle-specific-products.html

thank you sir!!
now to see if I can get it working with my set up.

 

[phule]

You're right but you're also wrong. Gmt900 is 07-13 trucks.

You are correct, not sure what i was thinking...i must be getting old..lol

 

[realsquash]

I'm not trying to piss anyone off, but post after post suggesting the wrong stuff confirmed why I tend to stay out of forums nowadays and made me regret posting at all. If a guy with almost 10,000 posts can't handle honest criticism that's his problem. To suggest I am a newbie in any way other than post count on this forum is ignorant. I've read thread after thread on many forums for weeks trying to find the answer. When I didn't find the answer, I decided to just bite the bullet and figure it out myself and post it all here so the next guy who searches high and low can save some time.

If I wanted the cheapest 6-lug brakes up front I'd just bolt on the C2500 rotor/hub and be happy. But that isn't good enough for me. I want to have larger rotors and aluminum 4-piston calipers, if not the OEM 2-piston cast iron ones. More performance, you know? I want to run 6 lug wheels front and rear, it's 2wd, and a C2500 rotor is not big enough. The truck is being built with handling in mind, so some things I'm doing are beyond the norm.

 

[df2x4]

Listen bud, I read what you posted. Every bit of it. When I finished and realized I had nothing valuable to tell you other than reply with a smarta55 comment about how 2015s aren't gmt900s, I decided to leave it be. But when you're new to a forum and decide to have the whole keyboard warrior attitude, especially to one of the more knowledgeable members of this forum, I have a problem with that. We had one member leave the forum entirely, every thread, every picture, gone, because of some a55hat new guy who thought they ruled the forum. Check your attitude, and we'd all get along just fine. You could have replied in a much friendlier way by saying, "thanks for the link, but I want to switch to 6 lug up front because I have a 14b for the rear".

This. 100% this.

I'm not trying to piss anyone off, but post after post suggesting the wrong stuff confirmed why I tend to stay out of forums nowadays and made me regret posting at all.

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If a guy with almost 10,000 posts can't handle honest criticism that's his problem.

It's not that he couldn't "handle it," it's that you were a complete ass instead of replying to him in a civil manner. Sewlow is one of the most helpful members active on here and you're not going to win any internet points acting like a tough guy to him for literally no reason.

 

[skylark]

Let's quit bashing this guy and see if we can help him out.

A thought that ccreddell and I have kicked around is using a c2500 rotor and machine off the rotor until you just have a hub. Slap on a late model rotor 13"-14" with appropriate calipers and build a bracket to make it happen.

 

[Chris Rogers]

As per little shop mfg.

 

[realsquash]

I did some test fitting today:

The lower ball joint can be flipped, and it's the same taper angle, but it's not the same diameter. I'll need to find another balljoint that fits the knuckle, or I can ream the knuckle larger. The LCA also needs to have around 1/4" ground off the very outside edge so it will clear inside of the new knuckle. I couldn't get the lower ball joint out today because my press is MIA, but I was able to mock it up and measure things.

The upper ball joint fits and can be tightened down, but it's a smidge larger diameter than the hole in the knuckle. Again, a light ream in the knuckle will get the joint to seat fully. It's close, maybe 0.125" deeper into the hole would be perfect. Or there may be a better ball joint that fits the UCA.

The tierod end needs to be flipped, but the diameter of the taper is much smaller than the hole in the knuckle. It shouldn't hit the sway bar, but I didn't measure it accurately.

Geometry-wise everything looks like it will fall into place perfectly except for one thing - the ride height will be 1-2" lower, which is all good with me. The distances between the centerlines of all the mount points look the same by the naked eye. I will measure it all to make sure.



When the lower BJ is flipped the arm will tuck inside the knuckle...

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[Chris Rogers]

have you done anything further with this. looking to add 16" fronts to mine (20-22" wheel) and I'm at a loss. need later 6 stud pattern to pull it off.

 

[realsquash]

have you done anything further with this. looking to add 16" fronts to mine (20-22" wheel) and I'm at a loss. need later 6 stud pattern to pull it off.

I have done quite a bit of experimenting and measuring, but the front won't be complete for another couple weeks. I just got the new 6-lug wheels today, actually.

 

[Chris Rogers]

I have done quite a bit of experimenting and measuring, but the front won't be complete for another couple weeks. I just got the new 6-lug wheels today, actually.

thanks!

based on a discussion I had with little shop they gave a Moog part number to get the steering back on.

interested to see your results when you get time.