Front airbag sensor relocation?

[Hipster]

Don't go putting words in my mouth. That's not what I said.

Takata airbagshave been an issue with multiple manufacturers. Tell me something I don't know. While your statement srs sensors don't detect crunching metal is true it doesn't mean compromised metal, prior or otherwise, aftermarket etc. doesn't have an effect on srs timing. You following me yet? I can't really explain it more simply. Buy a salvage certificate.

 

[Schurkey]

Two "solutions". One more palatable, one more theoretically "safe".

Drill and perhaps tap two holes, move the sensor up an inch and a half on the frame rail. The bolts may have self-stripping tapping threads so tapping might not be needed.

Weld a spacer and some extra length to the bracket so it goes over and beyond the sensor instead of contacting it.

I've seen too many sway bar mounts pop off the frame rail to attach anything to them. That one appears welded-on, but using thin metal that might distort. Perhaps I'm not seeing it correctly.

 

[Scooterwrench]

Two "solutions". One more palatable, one more theoretically "safe".

Drill and perhaps tap two holes, move the sensor up an inch and a half on the frame rail. The bolts may have self-stripping tapping threads so tapping might not be needed.

Weld a spacer and some extra length to the bracket so it goes over and beyond the sensor instead of contacting it.

I've seen too many sway bar mounts pop off the frame rail to attach anything to them. That one appears welded-on, but using thin metal that might distort. Perhaps I'm not seeing it correctly.

If those are inertia switches then relocating them a couple inches should not be an issue as long as they are oriented the same.

 

[termite]

That one appears welded-on, but using thin metal that might distort. Perhaps I'm not seeing it correctly.

The bracket is a hoop of steel welded on. Guessing here, but looks to be about as thick as the frame rail itself. Left it be last night to re-evaluate in daylight and tackle.

Seems we're not getting what was forecast, yet. So, the plow may not even be needed this weekend.

As for welding a spacer on the brace, it would need to be about 2-2.5 inches off the rail to get past the sensor. Then interfering with the great turning radius of a boat.

 

[Erik the Awful]

While your statement srs sensors don't detect crunching metal is true it doesn't mean compromised metal, prior or otherwise, aftermarket etc. doesn't have an effect on srs timing. You following me yet? I can't really explain it more simply.

I simply stated how they worked. I did not say anything on how it affected timing. We are both correct on this, and I'm just saying that I'd appreciate it if you don't put words in my mouth to make me appear wrong.

 

[termite]

To close this out, ended up moving the sensor an inch or so forward and up about half an inch. Maintained the original orientation and same plane/level? as original.

Plow is mounted and functional, mostly. No power angle right but left works. I'm thinking a valve is stuck or solenoid is bad. Just went with it angled left and let it ride for now.

Side note, unloading a 7.5-8 foot plow solo from the bed of a non-running truck by hand isn't for the faint of heart. I'm gonna be feeling it tomorrow. Damn tractor wouldn't cooperate and I had no desire to mess with that today.

 

[RichLo]

No power angle right... Aahhh, yes, the vein of my plows existence.

I have regular problems with that function. If it turns left while trying to lift, its probably just a wiring connection on your switch. If it free's up and turns right while kicking it and holding the right angle switch then its a hose or quick-disconnect fitting sticking.

Otherwise I think its the B solenoid... check Storkes Plows for the E60 manual to verify. A new solenoid is about $50 and I would get it just for your sanity.

 

[termite]

No power angle right... Aahhh, yes, the vein of my plows existence.

I have regular problems with that function. If it turns left while trying to lift, its probably just a wiring connection on your switch. If it free's up and turns right while kicking it and holding the right angle switch then its a hose or quick-disconnect fitting sticking.

Otherwise I think its the B solenoid... check Storkes Plows for the E60 manual to verify. A new solenoid is about $50 and I would get it just for your sanity.

I checked solenoid function with a mower battery on the bench and had magnetism on all three (and a rough looking wire on one of them that's likely the culprit). More parts are somewhere between Storks and my works office currently. No spare solenoids ordered yet though. As long as it lifts, lowers and moves snow when needed I'm calling it a win.

Already printed the manual from the link you provided in the other thread. Many thanks.