frame snapped in half ... what now?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

vipergtrdj

I'm Awesome
Joined
Aug 23, 2011
Messages
285
Reaction score
4
So after 2-3hours, the rear end of the truck is all out. Gas tank, rear end, exhaust, and I took the leaf spring brackets (as they were brand new September 2011). Below are some pictures.

Quick question - I will be working on the front end the rest of the week, anyone have a guide or a quick run down on how to remove the radiator support, and what I need to disconnect to lift the cab up? I got the cab mount bolts out, and will be working on the transfer case shift, shift linkage, and the wiring tomorrow. Is there like a master plug for the rear wire harness? and for the bolts, I need to replace most of the bolts since they are rusted - for the front end parts should I use Grade 8 bolts, if not what should I use? Home Depot is close to me, and usually their bolt selection is decent.




You must be registered for see images


You must be registered for see images


You must be registered for see images
 

TylerZ281500

Yukon Ridin High
Joined
Mar 13, 2011
Messages
5,861
Reaction score
254
Location
Clinton Township, Michigan
rad support is like 8 bolts or something, then feed all your electrical wires through a hole isconnect rad and it pops right out. grade 8 would be more than enough on most components. how are your body bushings? if you wanted to lift it or go polyuerethane now would be the time
 

vipergtrdj

I'm Awesome
Joined
Aug 23, 2011
Messages
285
Reaction score
4
rad support is like 8 bolts or something, then feed all your electrical wires through a hole isconnect rad and it pops right out. grade 8 would be more than enough on most components. how are your body bushings? if you wanted to lift it or go polyuerethane now would be the time

I have all new polyurethane bushings/cab mounts to put on. I am going to replace the control arm bushings as well. I can't decide if I want a 2" or 3" body lift though.

For the bolts - grade 8 bolts will work for bolting the front differential as well ? I figuredonce i remove all the old bolts i would bring them to the hardware store to get replacements so i know the sizes.
 

MOBS

The Mad Scientist
Joined
Apr 24, 2011
Messages
5,277
Reaction score
122
Location
Central Mississippi
This is one of the few things that I do love about the South, little to no rust! That, and the food.... but mostly no rust!

Well....we have rust, but in the order of no-rust to all-out-rust....dry climates like TX,AZ,etc comes in first...then the south(and other humid climates) come in second.....then the "ole salty north" comes in last :p I used to think it was bad when my vintage racers would have thinning floors due to rust after 40yrs....until I saw a 2005 ford minivan in jersey with absolutely no rockers or floor existing. The carpet literally protected your feet from the road....it was almost COOL!!!
 

vipergtrdj

I'm Awesome
Joined
Aug 23, 2011
Messages
285
Reaction score
4
Well....we have rust, but in the order of no-rust to all-out-rust....dry climates like TX,AZ,etc comes in first...then the south(and other humid climates) come in second.....then the "ole salty north" comes in last :p I used to think it was bad when my vintage racers would have thinning floors due to rust after 40yrs....until I saw a 2005 ford minivan in jersey with absolutely no rockers or floor existing. The carpet literally protected your feet from the road....it was almost COOL!!!

Rusted out floors are very common here. I saw a 2007 Chevy with no rockers or cab corners over the past weekend. Thats only a 5year old vehicle.

Lucky for me - my floors are solid in my cab :) I think thats the only solid piece haha.
 

vipergtrdj

I'm Awesome
Joined
Aug 23, 2011
Messages
285
Reaction score
4
You needa por-15 bedline the ENTIRE frame, chassis and underbody before you reassemble it.

Well I pick up the frame Saturday, early morning (approx. 8-9am). Then I have a bunch of friends coming by to help me wire wheel it and clean it all up. Shouldnt take too long to clean it up with 3-4guys and couple cases of beer. I hope to get atleast one coat of POR15 on by Saturday night. I am assuming I should do the radiator support, inner fenders, and probably the control arms while I have it all in pieces as well?

I just replaced the bushings in the control arms, as well as new ball joints, and tie rod ends :)
 

MOBS

The Mad Scientist
Joined
Apr 24, 2011
Messages
5,277
Reaction score
122
Location
Central Mississippi
I'd personally do everything that you cant immediately see when standing outside truck....in other words, every piece of metal except exterior body panels....even do fender wells where the salt will get thrown up while driving and collects to rust out your truck.
 

vipergtrdj

I'm Awesome
Joined
Aug 23, 2011
Messages
285
Reaction score
4
Well I got the front end in pieces at the moment - but I am having one hell of a time trying to figure out how to remove the front bumper. Anyone able to help me? pictures would be great. I got the fenders, inner fenders, hood, grille, and most of the wiring disconnected, but the front bumper is hanging my up on removing the old radiator support. I stopped for the night because I could not figure it out - and my Haynes book was good for nothing. It doesnt even cover anything about the front bumper. Also - how do I go about disconnecting the steering shaft that goes to the cab? I want to be able to lift the cab and pull the front out from under it.

I did find the bolts for the radiator support (and the radiator support mount bushings). but as for the bolts for the front bumper...... no luck there.
 
Top