Ford vs Chevy SAS

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dirtridinz71

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Well I am planning on doing a solid axle swap to my 92 GMC. It will be just a mild BUDGET (aka slow) build, running 35's, 52" chevy springs, custom hangers, cross-over steering.

The first big decission is what front axle to run. I already have a chevy 10B front (free) but also found a ford D44 HP (leaf sprung). Now with needing the pass. drop 241 for the gm axle, I've found a mostly complete (runs) 1990 blazer also and another free GM front axle.

Cost being the big factor here is the ford axle is $200, needs complete rebuild plus carrier for 4.56 gears. Or I can buy the whole blazer for $400, again front axle needing rebuilt with 4.56 gears.

The ford axles seem to be the one most go with, being the high pinion giving better driveshaft angle, strength wise no different between the D44 and GM 10B.

Having the complete blazer would save alot of searching for little parts like spring plates, rear springs, hangers, driveshaft etc. plus can sell un-needed parts to get back some $$$. Or even keep engine and tranny for spares.

I guess my question is from those that have done a SAS, if you went with the HP ford axle would you go with a chevy axle, for cheaper and little more work. Those that went with GM axle would you rather have a driver side drop and have better driveshaft angles? If you were in my place which would you go with?

Thanks for any input.
 

outalne94z71

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what ford d44 is it?
a ford 44 has flat top knuckles for crossover and a 10b does not, ultimately i would suggest the ford 44 with 73-76 chevy outer parts to stay 6 lug and have the flat top knuckle.

what tire size and lift you planning on?
 

dirtridinz71

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what ford d44 is it?
a ford 44 has flat top knuckles for crossover and a 10b does not, ultimately i would suggest the ford 44 with 73-76 chevy outer parts to stay 6 lug and have the flat top knuckle.

what tire size and lift you planning on?

It is a 79 f250 d44. The owner may also sell just the flattop knuckles.

Planning on just running my 35's with 7" or so lift. Planning on a build very similar to 88gmctrucks build. Mostly just run mud and snow.

Keeping in mind money is limited and by buying the blazer would have most of the other parts needed for swap. Which I would have to find elsewhere if bought the Ford axle.
 

bluex

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What other parts would you need? I have an 87 k5 im switching to 2wd. I have everything on it still except the front springs an xfer case/driveshafts

Will sell the 4x stuff cheap, its going to scrap anyways....
 

outalne94z71

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It is a 79 f250 d44. The owner may also sell just the flattop knuckles.

Planning on just running my 35's with 7" or so lift. Planning on a build very similar to 88gmctrucks build. Mostly just run mud and snow.

Keeping in mind money is limited and by buying the blazer would have most of the other parts needed for swap. Which I would have to find elsewhere if bought the Ford axle.
ford knuckles do you no good if you are running the chevy axle, the spindle mount is 5 bolt and the chevy spindle is 6

having a whole k5 would be nice for mounts but honestly i think it would be simpler to run a ford axle with chevy outer parts, use chevy hangers so you are not paying that rediculous price for sky or oru hangers, fabbing the pass drop case to shift with your shifter is another issue that the ford axle avoids and have a far better shaft angle, you can run up to 10" lift with the ford axle before needing a custom high dollar shaft(i used one from a 84 chevy 1/2 ton)
 

92Sierra

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ford knuckles do you no good if you are running the chevy axle, the spindle mount is 5 bolt and the chevy spindle is 6

having a whole k5 would be nice for mounts but honestly i think it would be simpler to run a ford axle with chevy outer parts, use chevy hangers so you are not paying that rediculous price for sky or oru hangers, fabbing the pass drop case to shift with your shifter is another issue that the ford axle avoids and have a far better shaft angle, you can run up to 10" lift with the ford axle before needing a custom high dollar shaft(i used one from a 84 chevy 1/2 ton)

sticking to the ford axle would be my choice if I could do it again. My driveshaft was not cheap, and it is 1350 so it really limits angle, even at my approx. 7" of lift. The tcase will be sticking below the frame to get a decent angle plus a new crossmember will be needed. another thing to consider is the input spline count on the tcase on the blazer, unless they already match. Mine didn't, so had to add the cost of an input gear to the seals etc to rebuild it.
In the long run I think you will have less headaches if you can use the Ford hpD44, plus its at a way better price than I could ever find in my searching around N.B.
 

outalne94z71

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Well I am planning on doing a solid axle swap to my 92 GMC. It will be just a mild BUDGET (aka slow) build, running 35's, 52" chevy springs, custom hangers, cross-over steering.

do not run 52" springs you will need to fab hangers to hang them off the front of the frame so you lose your bumper brackets
 

bggrnchvy

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Run the Ford axle. HP is better on driveshaft angles and up front about 30% stronger due to the angle of the tooth mate and the resulting near lack of carrier deflection.

Keep your t-case flush with the bottom of the frame rails.

I'm fine with my Chevy 60, but if I could have gotten a cheaper Ford 60 I would have gone that route.
 
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