EGR problems

[Nitrofreak]

My truck has a wicked bad bog at idle speed, and it lopes when idling cold. I have determined that something in the EGR system is the problem. when I unplug the vacuum line to the EGR valve the truck runs awesome, leading me to believe that the solenoid is allowing the valve to see vacuum at idle speed when it shouldn't. I put a new solenoid in and the problem is still there, If I unplug the ECM wire to the solenoid the problems goes away, I have pulled the valve. it moves freely and I can here the pintle tap closed if I open it and close it. Has anyone dealt with similar EGR problems? short of buying a new valve which are rather expensive up here in Canuck land Im lost as to what to do next.

 

[skylark]

It sounds like you have an electrical issue. As I recall the egr shouldn't be open until over 40mph with the throttle held at a steady state. If unplugging the connection at idle changes the way that it runs then there is a wiring issue.

 

[Spastik Monkey]

Has the truck been modified in any way?

 

[Nitrofreak]

truck has an open element filter, ultimate tbi mod, trottle body spacer, stock intake, cam, manifolds, and Y pipe. Cat has no guts in it exhaust is 3" after the stock cat to a 3.5" tip. never throws codes except for now (with the EGR unplugged so it runs good) it will throw a code if im highway cruising for 20 minutes.

 

[Nitrofreak]

to the top! seriously I need to figure this out. I put a new solenoid in the truck and its still an issue, vaccum is present through the solenoid at idle. I pulled the valve open with my mittyvac, and it stays open until I disconnect it. I cant figure out whats funky in the system

 

[Rusty Nail]

Oi!
I require more specifics about the truck. Year/engine/transmission/color. How many miles on the engine?
AND
What is the 20 minute code?
It sets under WHAT specific conditions?
Are they easy to duplicate? Say could you tell ME how to make it set and I go set it if I wanted to?

What does all of that have to do with the torque convertor?