Does fleetside bed come apart?

[Canon Lansdell]

I have a 98 Silverado with a fleetside bed that is damaged beyond my extent or repair. Bulging, dents, and dings. The whole 9 yards. I was wondering if you could take the single panel off of the entire bed without cutting the metal. I've seen LMC sells the body panel, even though if it's possible I'll get a used one.

 

[strikk]

The outer fleetside metal is held on by numerous spot welds along the inside of the bed rail, wheel well, and front/rear of the bed. This will remove the entire length of the bed from cab to rear bumper. Those bed side panels are then plug welded back into place.

 

[Canon Lansdell]

The outer fleetside metal is held on by numerous spot welds along the inside of the bed rail, wheel well, and front/rear of the bed. This will remove the entire length of the bed from cab to rear bumper. Those bed side panels are then plug welded back into place.

so if i were to cut where the welds are and tack them back it would be that simple?

 

[454cid]

There are drill bits for cutting spot welds....not sure what the real name is though.

 

[Erik the Awful]

These are awesome. Be sure and use some cutting oil - I use PB Blaster. My kid wrecked his '02 Mustang, and I had him use one to cut all the spot welds on the core support. I bought two, and you can swap the cutting head around when it wears out. I'm still on the first side of the first cutter.
https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in...utter-63657.html?_br_psugg_q=spot+weld+cutter

 

[strikk]

so if i were to cut where the welds are and tack them back it would be that simple?

You are correct, make sure it all lines up nicely and tack it back in place. Take the opportunity to paint the inside of the new patch panel as you wont be able to reach some areas once it is in place

 

[Hipster]

I use these on a 3 inch cut-off wheel in addition to the spot bits similar to those pictured,
https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/product/3m-green-corps-reinforced-weld-grinding-wheel-01991/3m-automotive?p=6WWAL20&msclkid=66672302ca6416a6d37a7c63b7c15676&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=AC_PLA_Desktop_Vendor_Shopping&utm_term=4584963492522536&utm_content=All Products

The grinding wheels make the job a little faster and also useful for dressing the plug welds before primer. Be sure to use weld-thru primer in between and where the panels overlap. Centerpunch the spot weld before drilling. It keeps the spot bit from skipping around and breaking the center pin or teeth off the cutter. Doing a quick cut with an air chisel and getting the majority of the panel off and then going back to work the flanges and seams also makes the job go a little easier.


Using an aftermarket panel, clamp up and/or screw it together and check tailgate fit and alignment with the cab before pulling the trigger on the first weld. The aftermarket panels don't fit as nice as oem and often need some filler work to make them nice.

Doing a used one is a total PITA if that's what your referring to because you usually tweak up the flanges on the skin your trying to get off. If you get used better to peel it off with the inner wheelhouse drilling along the floor seam and off the cross sills which is a **** ton more work. Better off to bolt on a clean used bed