Distributor replace/align

[HotWheelsBurban]

That’s how you got an education then! I’m hoping I can get this beast figured to have as a daily driver. You guys got slammed pretty hard down there. We have friends in Harlingen they got cold but not much snow. Up here we test trucks in opposite weather. We hit -52 at beginning of March

Ooh I got a shiver just reading that! I guess if you're used to it, it's not as bad, but I don't think I could be much north of Oklahoma in the winter.
But a little cool would be okay in the summer when it's over 100 farenheit....it has gotten to 110 before in July and August. Plus we have our wonderful gulf coast humidity, which makes 80 feel like 100.
Here we only got a few inches of snow. The ice and below freezing temperatures for several days is what was the biggest problem. Our infrastructure is not designed for this. Particularly not freeways with lots of overpasses, and everyone knows about our power grid now.....
Good luck with your truck!

 

[RawbDidIt]

Thanks for the reply @RawbDidIt some I knew some I didn’t so it’s good to hear it all lol! I never checked individual cylinders, never even paid attention to plugs until I had them all out to rotate engine.

if I follow, as long as timing is set with est plug disconnected, then reconnected, and truck runs well (no obvious misfires or lopes) the rotor location/distributor index is not necessarily an issue?

Cap and rotor were replaced, idles well, runs strong but then stalls out at low speed or idle. Starts right up after and under throttle not an issue.

Initial timing should get set with the engine off, cylinder one TDC entering the power stroke, distributor rotor pointing at cylinder 1. This can be done with the EST plugged or unplugged, however when you run the engine and use the timing light, you'll want the EST unplugged, line on the harmonic balancer should be dead nuts on the notch. If not, rotate distributor until it is. Turn engine off, tighten down distributor clamp, plug in EST, and you're good to go.

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[Erik the Awful]

Make sure you have thermal conductive paste between the ignition module and the distributor housing. Use it like you're trying to glue it on nicely without a bunch of extra goop squishing out.

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

Make sure you have thermal conductive paste between the ignition module and the distributor housing. Use it like you're trying to glue it on nicely without a bunch of extra goop squishing out.

Yes! Modules don't last long without that stuff!

 

[Schurkey]

TBI distributors have problems with the magnet built-into the mainshaft by the pickup coil. The magnet cracks, the pickup coil sends a goofy/weak signal to the module, and the engine stalls.

The magnet isn't replaceable separately--gotta replace the mainshaft.

The magnet is visible once you take the rotor off, although it's mostly covered-up by the rest of the mainshaft assembly.

One of these days, I'm gonna take pictures and start a new thread...

 

[pmndlt]

Great stuff guys. Thanks so much for all the input and help. Spent the day removing the PO’s undercoating that wasn’t prepped right. Needed a break from under the hood!
@RawbDidIt Just to confirm as long as I’m confirmed TDC I should have no issues pulling out existing distributor, replacing with new in proper direction? It’s off by a ways but I have marked existing just in case I need to go back.

@Erik the Awful @HotWheelsBurban @Schurkey This is gold, very thankful! Had no idea the magnet was not serviceable and I figured the thermal paste was a joke at first lol. Cheers all Have a great night. I’ll report in the AM.

 

[RawbDidIt]

Correct. Make sure to take into account that the rotor will rotate as the distributor gear meshes with the cam, when meshed and the distributor is all the way in, the rotor should be at the number 1 cylinder.

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[pmndlt]

Well here I am looking for some life coaching again ... With engine at TDC, suspect on compression stroke as I plugged in a compression tester with a rubber glove finger on the end (real classy lol) and had the wife keep an eye on it until it filled with air.

Pulled old distributor, dropped in new one (had to turn oil pump shaft slightly to get it to sit where it pointed to #1 cylinder). Replaced all plugs, torqued, wires connected and cap/rotor on.

Now she'll turn over and over but no start. Have checked plug wires (I labelled them all) and firing order (also labelled cap). Ignition coil is connected, pickup coil is connected...

Did i put the distributor in 180 degrees off? Pretty pissed just writing I think I know my answer... Thanks, I think LOL.

 

[RawbDidIt]

How did you verify TDC?

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[pmndlt]

Hey @RawbDidIt I lined up the timing mark to 0 and used the compression tester hose with glove to verify (I think) compression stroke. Is this correct? Thanks