disc kit for 89 14 bolt FF

[unstable]

It's slow going but I've been replacing all of the lines in the 1989 1 ton. I didn't have enough clearance between the leaf spring and the brake cylinder to get a new line in so I tore down the drivers side today. I was planning on replacing the cylinders and all of the brake components when I stumbled upon some references to a disc brake conversion kit. Wow how this would be the hot ticket, lighter, easier to service...boy do I dislike brake drums.

Anyhow, as I started poking around online, most of the kits that I've seen say they are good for 1973-1988. Is there that big of a change between 88 and 89 that these kits won't work or is there a company that is making kits for 89 full floaters / 14 bolt rears that you fine folks are aware of?

Thanks.

 

[454ss]

ive been kicking around the idea for my 97 k3500 next time i gotta do brakes cause the backing plates are about rusted through and the drums are original. i havent researched the options yet but i believe a couple people make kits to work on the 88 up trucks, other than abs they are the same old axel.

 

[unstable]

ive been kicking around the idea for my 97 k3500 next time i gotta do brakes cause the backing plates are about rusted through and the drums are original. i havent researched the options yet but i believe a couple people make kits to work on the 88 up trucks, other than abs they are the same old axel.

I emailed a few of the manufacturers to find out for sure. There's this place:
http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/14FFdisckit.htm

In the notes it says:

This kit works with any single wheel GM Corporate 14 bolt full float axle with the drum secured BEHIND the wheel bearing hubs. This kit does not work if your drums slip off from the outside or with dual wheel axles.

But to be honest I'm not sure what the hell they mean. I tore into mine for the first time today, first experience with the FF rear end and it looked like this:
-Unbolted lugs from rim / removed rim/tire
-unbolted middle of hub and axle slid out...yummy gear oil.
-snap ring + metal block/key and castle nut remove to pull off the drum and hub assembly.

I don't love the spacers in that kit. I've seen some other kits where the caliper bracket actually has a bend to it to eliminate the spacers. Again, not sure why they'd advertise as 73-88 if some of these kits will work on any 14 bolt FF.
I'd swap someone this 14 bolt FF in a heartbeat for something lighter with better gearing. I bought this rig because it was a big block and I wanted to make it a nice street cruiser. Unbeknownst to me at that moment in time, the 1 ton chassis has some limitations, aside from being heavier, there are fewer drop options etc.

A.D.D. moment totally not relevant to the thread---I finally just got my rebuilt motor in from WNY this past weekend...sitting in the garage now. It will be awhile before I can drop it into the 89 because of $$ constraints but it's sure going to be fun once I get to that point. 454 .100 over, so it's a 476. If my memory serves (it's been about 3 years since I initiated the rebuild) I think I have 802 oval heads on it and I had the intakes punched out. On paper it's about a 500hp/500ftlbs torque motor under 5000 rpm. Not what I had in mind 15 years ago as a teenager when I wanted a "cool fast car" but I'm hoping it will suffice. When you get married and have 3 kids and take on a mortgage, you've got to make compromises.

 

[WFO4X4]

I emailed a few of the manufacturers to find out for sure. There's this place:
http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/14FFdisckit.htm

In the notes it says:

But to be honest I'm not sure what the hell they mean. I tore into mine for the first time today, first experience with the FF rear end and it looked like this:
-Unbolted lugs from rim / removed rim/tire
-unbolted middle of hub and axle slid out...yummy gear oil.
-snap ring + metal block/key and castle nut remove to pull off the drum and hub assembly.

I don't love the spacers in that kit. I've seen some other kits where the caliper bracket actually has a bend to it to eliminate the spacers. Again, not sure why they'd advertise as 73-88 if some of these kits will work on any 14 bolt FF.
I'd swap someone this 14 bolt FF in a heartbeat for something lighter with better gearing. I bought this rig because it was a big block and I wanted to make it a nice street cruiser. Unbeknownst to me at that moment in time, the 1 ton chassis has some limitations, aside from being heavier, there are fewer drop options etc.

A.D.D. moment totally not relevant to the thread---I finally just got my rebuilt motor in from WNY this past weekend...sitting in the garage now. It will be awhile before I can drop it into the 89 because of $$ constraints but it's sure going to be fun once I get to that point. 454 .100 over, so it's a 476. If my memory serves (it's been about 3 years since I initiated the rebuild) I think I have 802 oval heads on it and I had the intakes punched out. On paper it's about a 500hp/500ftlbs torque motor under 5000 rpm. Not what I had in mind 15 years ago as a teenager when I wanted a "cool fast car" but I'm hoping it will suffice. When you get married and have 3 kids and take on a mortgage, you've got to make compromises.

it appears that they are saing it isn't compatable with dooleys....

 

[bggrnchvy]

The early 14FF axles had drums that were attached when you pressed the stud into the hub.

The later units have lsip on drums/discs that are mounted using the lugnuts.

The location of the welded on mounting bracket for the backing plate is different as a result and the same brackets don't fit both.

 

[unstable]

The early 14FF axles had drums that were attached when you pressed the stud into the hub.

The later units have lsip on drums/discs that are mounted using the lugnuts.

The location of the welded on mounting bracket for the backing plate is different as a result and the same brackets don't fit both.

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Here's a picture of my hub/drum. I *think* I'm good to go but not 100% certain. From what I read the later models the hubs weren't pressed together with the drums...is that right? Therefore the hubs/drums could be removed seperately.
Mine are pressed together on the lugs.

In the kit I was looking at, the lugs are driven out and you attach the hubs to the 87 front rotor, bolt up the bracket/caliper and you're good.

 

[bggrnchvy]

That is the older style. You should be fine running the regularly available 73-87 kits.

 

[unstable]

wow, I feel like I am having a stroke of good luck on this deal. Ruffstuff has the brackets for $50 and they are offset eliminating spacers and about $100 off of the cost of the other kit. Heck, I can literally get this done for cheaper than re-building the drum brakes. I'm going to go ultra-el-cheapo for now and use crap calipers but I'll definitely upgrade later on.

 

[bggrnchvy]

wow, I feel like I am having a stroke of good luck on this deal. Ruffstuff has the brackets for $50 and they are offset eliminating spacers and about $100 off of the cost of the other kit. Heck, I can literally get this done for cheaper than re-building the drum brakes. I'm going to go ultra-el-cheapo for now and use crap calipers but I'll definitely upgrade later on.

It's why I did discs on the 14FF in the 97. Cheaper than buying backing plates, whee cylinders, drums, shoes and a spring kit.

 

[unstable]

It's why I did discs on the 14FF in the 97. Cheaper than buying backing plates, whee cylinders, drums, shoes and a spring kit.

Did you end up going with the 4x4 Chevy Calipers or the Caddy Calipers to retain an emergency brake?
I'm leaning towards just sticking with the chevy calipers and to hell with the e-brake...at least for now. The cost difference is $120 at the minimum.