(DIESEL) swapping my 95 S-vin for an F-vin

[great white]

Not sure what vats is but I guess I don't care if it isn't equipped

Vats is antitheft.

1) how do you do TDCO relearn?

Obdi needs a bidirectional scanner to intiate it. Engh motors sells one.

2) cold restart relearn - do you do this each time before starting the vehicle?

Nope, just when you've had the PCM disconnected.

Also, based on what you have told me, what would the downfall be if I kept my PCM from a non F-vin vehicle? Incorrect fuel and boost?

Nope, just less HP/tq. You have to swap upper and lower manifolds if going to an L65 upper. The egr ports are in the lower manifold and will cause all manner of problems if not plugged or swapped out. The L65 lower just blocks off the head egr ports by design.

Thanks so much for the info. I love this forum






I will pull my codes. Also, the method above, is that for manual boost? I do not have manual boost, I do have a mechanical waste gate solenoid controller but that's it, it is just a replacement to the vacuum system

Nope, it simulates the modules by introducing the resistance. Basically, it "tricks" the PCM into thinking the module is still there after you have removed them. This is not required if you have the PCM recalibrated. Recalibration removes the "switches" and sets it to L65 calibration, which only has an boost sensor.

A "boost fooler" (which is a different beast, usually just an adjustabke 10K pot) only matters if you want to use the vacuum system or run the boost up over the "over boost" pressure threshold with the turbomaster spring. It codes somewhere around 12-13 psi iirc.

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Answers above.

 

[Scrufdog]

The resistor method helps eliminate Egr and vacuum solenoid codes. How you control boost after that is up to you. I did the home depot spring and bolt method. $6 manual boost control holding steady 14 psi for 8 years. As stated above , too much boost will set a code without an aftermarket computer or a boost fooler. Stock usually codes out around 9-10 psi.

 

[DieselDetroit]

For those of you who are wondering why I'm complicating things, I'm trying to do my swap and keep it as factory as possible. I don't want to splice or cut, I'd rather replace all the necessary parts with F parts. It's just a style that I strive for

Another question, and good IM swap threads? I'm going to swap over to my non-EGR manifold soon and just wanted a few tips. Can I expect coolant to leak? Other than some plugs and studs, is there anything else?

Thanks


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[great white]

For those of you who are wondering why I'm complicating things, I'm trying to do my swap and keep it as factory as possible. I don't want to splice or cut, I'd rather replace all the necessary parts with F parts. It's just a style that I strive for

Another question, and good IM swap threads? I'm going to swap over to my non-EGR manifold soon and just wanted a few tips. Can I expect coolant to leak? Other than some plugs and studs, is there anything else?

Thanks


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No coolant passages in a 6.5 manifold.

L65 or L56.

Simply remove upper manifold and attaching bits, remove manifold bolts in proper sequence, new gaskets and torque to spec in proper sequence.

Injection line clamps are a biotch. Make sure you put them all back on in the proper fashion. The lines need them for support or cracking/leakage is possible.

Make sure you put the passenger side rear ground ring on the proper stud. this is your ECM ground and will bugger things right up if it doesn't get a solid ground.

The glow plug relay can be a pain.

Watch the passenger side rear fuel return line tab. It like to get caught under the manifold and between the gasket. The manifold will bolt down and seem normal until you build a couple pounds of boost. Then it will scream like a banshee. It all has to come apart again to get it right if this happens. If this happens and you are lucky, it will just whistle and you get to do the work all over again, if unlucky, the manifold will crack when you bolt it down.

Head EGR ports are simply blocked off by the L65 lower by the nature of it's design. No plugs or special gaskets required.

Good time to check the filter manager to injection pump lines and clean the umpteen years of filth out of the engine valley also....