Cowl or factory hood?? Can’t decide

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Erik the Awful

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a functioning cowl hood will substantially lower underhood temps. Thus decreasing IAT's, allowing better performance and lower spark knock counts, even on a stock engine.

I'd like to see empirical data on that. Not looking for an argument, but the original purpose of the cowl was to duct air from the high pressure area at the base of the windshield to the intake. At the same time I've heard of people spacing the back of the hood up an inch to get hot air out, so I'm not going to doubt it either.
 

GoToGuy

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For a classic, coolness there is something about the cowl induction design. Whether a solid color or some combo of black base and red classic stripe's, or silver base with black stripe's, or white base with black stripe's.
I have a copy of Fischer Body Assembly manual, and it has the layout and measurements for painting the stripes on the cowl hoods. I have two hoods, one for the 93K1500 xcab, sb. And the other for a 98 Tahoe 4 door. Have fun good luck
 

Dariusz Salomon

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Just to confuse things-how about louvered one? Or ram? I know I'm not helping lol. But that would be my dilema if I was to replace the hood. Tho I lean towards cowl.
 

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jcain226

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Just to confuse things-how about louvered one? Or ram? I know I'm not helping lol. But that would be my dilema if I was to replace the hood. Tho I lean towards cowl.
I hear ya. Depends on what time it is when you ask me. Right now I’m leaning towards the basic 2” cowl, and just keeping the factory hood in case I ever want to change it back. Something about the look of the basic cowl!
 

ralmo94

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I'd like to see empirical data on that. Not looking for an argument, but the original purpose of the cowl was to duct air from the high pressure area at the base of the windshield to the intake. At the same time I've heard of people spacing the back of the hood up an inch to get hot air out, so I'm not going to doubt it either.
It would seem that at speed the high pressure would encourage more fresh airflow, while sitting still at a traffic light and such, would give an exit route for the heat, cause it rises. I know my truck gets high underhood temps, the only factory place to exit is the bottom. I removed the splash shields and now I have better airflow, but if idled still will high underhood temps. But if you look at the stock tune, iats can cost a lot of timing
 

454cid

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It would seem that at speed the high pressure would encourage more fresh airflow, while sitting still at a traffic light and such, would give an exit route for the heat, cause it rises. I know my truck gets high underhood temps, the only factory place to exit is the bottom. I removed the splash shields and now I have better airflow, but if idled still will high underhood temps. But if you look at the stock tune, iats can cost a lot of timing

The IAT is not looking at underhood temps. Sure if you idle a lot the IAT will go up, but rolling you're pulling in outside air.

Routing cowl air to the engine compartment will move hot air out from under the hood, but also make it harder for air to come though the radiator, and that's where the real cooling takes place.
 
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