Code 36 Returns-IAC and Vacuum

[grampadirt]

Are you sure the throttle blades are closing completely?Take the air cleaner off and have a look down inside the throttle body,also check the shaft they're attached to making sure is not loose.

 

[termite]

The code 36 issue i was having on my 95 with a 7.4L was the Idle Speed Control Actuator Solenoid Valve (GM terminology) original P/N 10233505 (my application). Replacement p/n was crb 219227 from napa. Rockauto also has the part but it is a standard motor products (https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1002097&cc=1302624&pt=6072&jsn=2576).

Vacuum hoses needed to be reversed on the replacement part and I ended up needing to use all new lines and tossing the pre-bent lines so I didn't have to modify the bracket or harness. It is located to passenger side of thermostat housing. I'll try to grab a photo of it tomorrow.

 

[grampadirt]

The code 36 issue i was having on my 95 with a 7.4L was the Idle Speed Control Actuator Solenoid Valve (GM terminology) original P/N 10233505 (my application). Replacement p/n was crb 219227 from napa. Rockauto also has the part but it is a standard motor products (https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1002097&cc=1302624&pt=6072&jsn=2576).

Vacuum hoses needed to be reversed on the replacement part and I ended up needing to use all new lines and tossing the pre-bent lines so I didn't have to modify the bracket or harness. It is located to passenger side of thermostat housing. I'll try to grab a photo of it tomorrow.

I dealt with that problem years ago,it does get frustrating until you understand how it works.Have you noticed the quick drop in rpm when that diaphragm does the quick release when told by the computer to lower the idle as it warms up? There are times when my engine will almost die then gets going again at the lower idle.It acts like the choke on a carbed engine has released to soon.

 

[BBslider001]

The code 36 issue i was having on my 95 with a 7.4L was the Idle Speed Control Actuator Solenoid Valve (GM terminology) original P/N 10233505 (my application). Replacement p/n was crb 219227 from napa. Rockauto also has the part but it is a standard motor products (https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1002097&cc=1302624&pt=6072&jsn=2576).

Vacuum hoses needed to be reversed on the replacement part and I ended up needing to use all new lines and tossing the pre-bent lines so I didn't have to modify the bracket or harness. It is located to passenger side of thermostat housing. I'll try to grab a photo of it tomorrow.

I really appreciate this info man. I will take a look first thing in the morning and see if I can locate what you're talking about.

Thanks to you other guys to. At least it gives me something to eliminate. I was going to put a new MAP sensor on there too just for S&Gs. So at this point, that sensor, rechecking vacuum lines and routing, MAP, and TBI gasket. Got it. Hopefully I can report back tomorrow. I think I know what part you're talking about. It's the "thingy" that has to vacuum lines going to it. Maybe this is the issue!!

 

[termite]

I dealt with that problem years ago,it does get frustrating until you understand how it works.Have you noticed the quick drop in rpm when that diaphragm does the quick release when told by the computer to lower the idle as it warms up? There are times when my engine will almost die then gets going again at the lower idle.It acts like the choke on a carbed engine has released to soon.

I have not noticed a sharp drop in rpm when it opens the solenoid after warm up yet. Only driven once since getting it functional due to some brake work. Will fill in those details in my build thread later on.

@BBslider001 I'll get you a picture of the solenoid in the morning after cooking the family breakfast and before bleeding brakes. Easy to test with a test lamp/multimeter once engine is warm and in closed loop to verify power to the plug.

If you haven't found the service manual thread on here, in the sticky section, take a look for the full troubleshooting steps. Should be in the emissions/driveability manual if i recall correctly.

 

[BBslider001]

I have not noticed a sharp drop in rpm when it opens the solenoid after warm up yet. Only driven once since getting it functional due to some brake work. Will fill in those details in my build thread later on.

@BBslider001 I'll get you a picture of the solenoid in the morning after cooking the family breakfast and before bleeding brakes. Easy to test with a test lamp/multimeter once engine is warm and in closed loop to verify power to the plug.

If you haven't found the service manual thread on here, in the sticky section, take a look for the full troubleshooting steps. Should be in the emissions/driveability manual if i recall correctly.

Thanks again! I'll head out here in a few when it warms up and look at my lines and that solenoid. I have my multimeter handy. This will be great news if that little bugger has been the issue all along. I never even tought to look at that solenoid. I'll look in the manual while sitting here drinking coffee and report back with results. I sure appreciate you getting back to me. I hate it when people leave threads hanging.

 

[termite]

You must be registered for see images attach

the solenoid in question is on the left in this photo. After warm up, it should have battery voltage across the terminals.

 

[BBslider001]

I dealt with that problem years ago,it does get frustrating until you understand how it works.Have you noticed the quick drop in rpm when that diaphragm does the quick release when told by the computer to lower the idle as it warms up? There are times when my engine will almost die then gets going again at the lower idle.It acts like the choke on a carbed engine has released to soon.

This hasn't happened. It starts right up, idles high in cold, and then settles at 8-900 when it's up to temp and in D. I haven't had any stalling or drops in idle yet. It just idles higher than i think it should, but it may be normal? I would love it to be around 650.

 

[BBslider001]

You must be registered for see images attach

the solenoid in question is on the left in this photo. After warm up, it should have battery voltage across the terminals.

Ahhhhh,ok. I thought it would be the one near the bottom that says Delco Remy on it. This really helps. Headed out there now to trouble shoot. I wish there was a way to make it closed or jumper it to see what it does. may try that. I'll report back.

 

[BBslider001]

Update, I have good voltage at the pigtail and vacuum lines are all good. I went ahead and ordered a new one just because. I don't like to throw parts, but it is cheap and old enough in my mind to go ahead and replace it. It should here tomorrow and I'll install it and see what difference it makes, if any.