Cheap cowl hood.

[MOBS]

oooooooo, my roll pan has it and it said that it wasn't a primer, but an enameled shell that needed removed before painting.

 

[90bowtie]

I posted pics on this thread I thought of how mine fit.

Mine fit same as my stock hood.

the coating is EDP I think, electro deposit primer or whatever.

Yes,thats it. I couldnt think of the right name for it.

I went to a vocational school for auto body when I was in high school and just can't remember exactly how we prepped new panels.
But here is my plan for the prep of these hoods.
1. Scuff up the black "e-coat" maybe with a brown scuff pad.
2. Prime with a good laquer based primer surfacer.
3. Wet sand with block and 320 first,re-prime,then final block sand with 400-600 wet.
4.Top off with base coat/clear coat.

What do the body guys think? Would love to hear your input.

 

[bluex]

No need to completely remove the e coat. Its the best primer you can get. Its almost like powder coat, except the parts are submerged in the liquid primer instead of spraying it. The liquid primer is positive charged an the parts are negative, so the paint is literally drawn into every spot.

Most new cars are done this way now. We have 3 large tanks of the stuff here an the cars are completely submerged an flip completely over while submerged to remove any air pockets an ensure complete coverage......

 

[90bowtie]

No need to completely remove the e coat. Its the best primer you can get. Its almost like powder coat, except the parts are submerged in the liquid primer instead of spraying it. The liquid primer is positive charged an the parts are negative, so the paint is literally drawn into every spot.

Most new cars are done this way now. We have 3 large tanks of the stuff here an the cars are completely submerged an flip completely over while submerged to remove any air pockets an ensure complete coverage......

So whats the best way to prep it,if you don't mind me asking?

 

[bluex]

So whats the best way to prep it,if you don't mind me asking?

I don't work in the paint shop, so I don't know for sure. Im assuming you would prep it like any other primer. It cant add any lengthy prep to the process or we wouldnt use it, I can promise you that.

I know what I do about it cause they made a big deal out of it when the piant shop was upgraded with it. They made a big fuss over it, but Hyundai had already had it for about 5 yrs at that point....

 

[Wagonbacker9]

I plan to knock it down with 600 on a DA, hit it with pre-paint, tack it, and spray... but to be fair, thats also what I'm doing with the rest of the truck, as I'm not going for "professional" results..

 

[Swims350]

for me I just wetsand and spray it. if you want to block it then I'd think 220, primer or surfacer/sealer of choice, sand or block that just as you would anything else, re coat, wet sand, sealer if you want, or not then base and clear. Basically what you had already said.

I'm going to just scuff and shoot mine unless I notice something wrong with it before then.

 

[Swims350]

I plan to knock it down with 600 on a DA, hit it with pre-paint, tack it, and spray... but to be fair, thats also what I'm doing with the rest of the truck, as I'm not going for "professional" results..

600 I hear is good for metalics, if not then 400 is good.

unless you got scratches or chips man you'll get professional results that way. it's further then I go. I usually just scuff and shoot with 600 or 400 wet, by hand. I also do that for the final step before paint, of course I tack rag it and grease/wax remover as well.

Only thing I DA is body worked areas to feather them in and get out the rough scratches, and then sand out scratches and chips.

 

[Wagonbacker9]

600 I hear is good for metalics, if not then 400 is good.

unless you got scratches or chips man you'll get professional results that way. it's further then I go. I usually just scuff and shoot with 600 or 400 wet, by hand. I also do that for the final step before paint, of course I tack rag it and grease/wax remover as well.

Only thing I DA is body worked areas to feather them in and get out the rough scratches, and then sand out scratches and chips.

I'll be bondoing a rust repair, leaving the wrinkles in the passenger bedside, and using a DA mostly because its faster and I'm lazy... After that, I will be shooting a metallic single stage... maybe clearing. likely not.

 

[Swims350]

LOL it's definately faster.