cheap but affective, homemade cold air intake

[Kyle97GMC]

my factory 90 degree piece your ambient air temp sensor goes in to was bent real bad, so thats the only reason i changed that piec. otherwise, that peice flows fine

Sweet sounds like a plan. Should be an easy swap then hopefully it helps haha

 

[atyates]

i could tell a difference as soon as i did mine. it should help ever further after i make my heat shield

 

[Loubell]

What about engine vibration? and engine movement under torque load? That piece you removed was designed to connect the stationary air fiter assembly with the moving and vibrating engine assembly. It seems to me, being rigid plastic, that eventually something somewhere will crack.

 

[Vortec Lover]

What about engine vibration? and engine movement under torque load? That piece you removed was designed to connect the stationary air fiter assembly with the moving and vibrating engine assembly. It seems to me, being rigid plastic, that eventually something somewhere will crack.

I doubt that is really an issue

 

[great white]

What about engine vibration? and engine movement under torque load? That piece you removed was designed to connect the stationary air fiter assembly with the moving and vibrating engine assembly. It seems to me, being rigid plastic, that eventually something somewhere will crack.

It is a concern and you are correct about the oem ducting. Its why every oem uses them. If they could get away with a stright piece (cheaper) they would.

I didn't mention it because thats not the way this thread is going.

But, the real concern with engine movement in this case is seal integrity.

With a "cone" filter, theres usually movement because it is not usually rigid mounted. It's usually hanging off a "flexy" bracket or just hanging in space. When the engine torques on its mounts, it goes with it.

If going to the oem panel box its a slighty different story. They are vibration mouned and not intended to compensate for movement. Jamming on the engine can either compromise the filtering or pop the ducting right out.

But, as i said before, thats not a concern considering where this thread is going....

 

[superdave]

It is a concern and you are correct about the oem ducting. Its why every oem uses them. If they could get away with a stright piece (cheaper) they would.

I didn't mention it because thats not the way this thread is going.

But, the real concern with engine movement in this case is seal integrity.

With a "cone" filter, theres usually movement because it is not usually rigid mounted. It's usually hanging off a "flexy" bracket or just hanging in space. When the engine torques on its mounts, it goes with it.

If going to the oem panel box its a slighty different story. They are vibration mouned and not intended to compensate for movement. Jamming on the engine can either compromise the filtering or pop the ducting right out.

But, as i said before, thats not a concern considering where this thread is going....

You are right. That flexible duct is there for a reason. Since all the OP is getting out of this mod is more noise, then just pop the lid on the factory unit and suck in the same hot air that it's currently getting with the PVC pipe unit.

 

[great white]

Let me be clear here: I'm not trying to flame the OP.

If guys want to do the abs pipe intake duct or open air filters, that's cool. Pop one on and feel good about it.

As the saying goes, It's a free county.

However, I would suggest you do your research first and make sure you know what you're getting....impression is not the same as science/fact....

 

[Loubell]

My intention was not to trash the OP or his ideas. There is enough of that on all of these forums over the years. I was pointing out something that maybe the OP or other posters didnt take into consideration, and try to come up with a workaround.

For example:
When I blip the throttle, the top of the engine moves 1/2" to 3/4", and this is with no load. Add a load to the drive train, and I'm sure it would move 1", especially during accelleration and shifts. So if the filter assembly that the OP fabricated moves 1" at the engine, how much is it moving 2 1/2' away at the far end of that filter? Maybe 2"-4" under load, I don't know.

So the challenge is this:
To modify his current set up so that
1. It does not contact either the hood or the inner fender during torque load
2. It does not crack due to the constant shock loading that shifting will place on the assembly.

In keeping with the OPs low buck approach, I propose to:
1. Add a short section of rubber (or silicone) tubing (big rig radiator hose or Turbo boots from a diesel pick up) between the 45* angle pieces and
2. Mount some sort of attachment to the tip of the filter and the side of the inner fender to help dampen its movement. In the past I have seen used another piece of large rubber hose or a universal muffler clamp for this purpose.

Just trying to keep in the spirit of this low budget mod

 

[superdave]

Count me in with those not trying to flame anybody. Just pointing out some things "in my opinion" because others may be considering this and should know all the facts or drawbacks as they may be. Like I said earlier, I used to "flip the breather" on older cars just for the noise. I thought it was faster because people said so. It didn't hurt then because it was breathing hot, underhood air either way. Those old school approaches don't always work on modern cars and trucks. Getting rid of the factory cold air intake and using an open element, underhood setup is probably not going to help performance "in my opinion".

 

[kidd666]

This is way old but wanted to comment to save it

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