east302
I'm Awesome
Is that -23 degrees the CMP Retard (Offset) value or the timing advance?
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Hmm, the link didn’t show up.
Anyways, as long as #1 was at TDC on compression stroke, the rotor should point to that number eight when fully seated.
https://www.diyforums.net/install-chevy-4.3l-5.7l-vortec-distributor-1065.html
Anyways, it’s not the ignition timing that you’re trying to get to read zero, it’s the CMP Retard that needs to be at zero degrees (plus or minus two) at around 1100-rpm. To get it to zero, loosen the hold down bolt and twist the distributor housing until the value is as close to zero as you can get. Tighten the bolt and it’s done. You won’t be physically pulling up the distributor, going to the next tooth and reseating it to get to the zero CMP Offset.
You’ve re-checked the wire routings? Try a Delco distributor cap if you get the CMP offset correct and still have the issue.
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Yep, they’re two different numbers. I’d start with the CMP and get that set first.
When I did my lower gaskets and MPFI replacement, I ordered a $120 Palmer Performance OBD adapter that was supposed to work on an iPhone. Downloaded DashCommand, paid for the extended PIDs and it wouldn’t connect to the truck.
I dicked around with Palmer Performance for several days, they said it must be the adapter so I returned it for a refund.
I finally ended up getting the Android versions of it all and it worked fine. The cheapo android tablet, adapter and app were maybe $75 total.
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