Budget SAS swap questions

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TexasRebel

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So, I am slowly building my girlfriends truck for her (1996 Chevy C2500) and she told me that she wants 4wd. Before any of you say to sell the truck and buy a 4wd, she has a big emotional attachment to this truck and wants to hold on to it.

The questions I have for it are:

She loves to barrel race and the truck will be hauling a horse trailer, will the stock 6-lug rear axle hold up and will a 6-lug front work well with it?

If I have to upgrade to 8-lug, what axles would be best? I'm guessing Dana 60s?

What manual transfer case should I use? It has a 4l60E now, and I plan to just swap it out for a 4wd trans or find a 4L80E if possible.

It won't be doing hardcore off road tasks, maybe some mudding every now and then, but no crawling. What gear ratio would be best to go with?

What kit would be the best to go with? It can't have too much lift since it will be hauling a trailer and she is not very tall (5' 7").
 

thz71

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Is the stock 6 lug a 10 bolt? If so then imo it wont hold up to bigger tires none the less pulling a rrailer with biggee tires. If you go 8 lug your beatvoptions are 14 bolt rear and dana 60 front. Transfer case depwnds on what axle you end up using. Gear ratio depends in what tires size youre going for. The best hanger kit imo is ORD not cheap but its the best one. Low lift solid axle swaps are hard.
 

TexasRebel

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Is the stock 6 lug a 10 bolt? If so then imo it wont hold up to bigger tires none the less pulling a rrailer with biggee tires. If you go 8 lug your beatvoptions are 14 bolt rear and dana 60 front. Transfer case depwnds on what axle you end up using. Gear ratio depends in what tires size youre going for. The best hanger kit imo is ORD not cheap but its the best one. Low lift solid axle swaps are hard.

Well, I have no problems stepping up to 8-lug, it just means that I'll be putting more money into the swap (which I don't mind). As for tires, I'm only looking to for 33s or maybe 35s if I absolutely have to.
 

TexasRebel

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I'd like to see someone do a build with these parts, maybe you're the candidate!! http://www.rustysoffroad.com/builde...e-4x4-full-size-blazer-builder-parts-kit.html


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Would that kit also work on the trucks? And the kit I end up buying will depend on a few things. This swap won't be happening soon. Maybe over the next 6-8 months to maybe a year. She is going to be using a different vehicle when she starts college, so maybe I can get a hold of it and do some work while she can't drive it.

Edit: Just noticed that the Rusty's kit uses links. I want to go with leaf setup.
 

Blasphemy

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A leaf setup would be easier to build and somewhat cheaper but you won't ever match the ride quality and off-road capability of linked coilover setup


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TexasRebel

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TylerZ281500

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i usually beg to differ but here goes, a coil setup can be done just as cheap. theres so many ways to do it its stupid and it looks better. you need to establish a budget and cause, people have been towing with ifs for years as most of the time your not towing in 4wd which eliminates the need for it. If you want some offorad fun and want to keep 6 lug you can go with a 14 olt semi float and 10 bolt or d44 or something like that. great thing about 10 bolts and 44s is the outers and hubs swap from chevy and ford and can be made to match 6 or 8 lug.

tcase depends on which axle you go with up front, wether pass drop or drivers drop theres alot of great options out there and jusst about anything can bolt to a 60e or 80e. now remember an 80e swap requires harness and computer work for it to function flawlessly.

with a leaf setup your constrained to have at least 4" of lift i beliee is the general consensus and you wont have much travel, to keep down cost you could just use 80s chevy rear springs and call it a day with the 3" premade stuff, or get out your welder and some swuare stock and tubing and make your own, its quite simple
 

GMC Burbalade

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For clearance reasons, I'd recommend no less than 6" with leaf springs. Should give you enough room to run a straight drag ling with crossover steering.

With coils, you don't NEED to run crossover and you don't need to worry about the drag link hitting the springs, so steering clearance isn't as big of an issue, though you still need to watch the frame if you're running a straight tie rod. However you can still run into issues elsewhere. Wouldn't want the axle hitting the frame, the diff housing hitting the pitman arm/drag link, etc.

If you're trying to keep it low with leafs, don't do the 52" rear springs. They push the axle forward, they give you more lift, and they're too soft in stock form.

For a budget setup like you're describing, for the front I'd recommend an 8 lug Dana 44 front, with 3-4" lift 47" springs. (GM 73-87 front, ~6-7" total lift) For the rear, a FF 10.5 14 bolt with factory 3/4 ton springs, a shackle flip, and HD shackles. 35-36" tires with 4.56s.
 
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