Broken shock bolts... how to fix?

[1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2]

Hey guys... putting new shocks on my 97 C-1500.

It's been a LONG time since I worked on one of these, but on the front lower shock mount (on the lower control arm) didn't GM used to use the nut/clip contraption? These are so nice because broken bolts are of no worry. Anyway, on my 97 the lower control arms have square nuts welded to them for the lower shock bolts and of course they are breaking off as I try to take them out.

Ideas on how to fix it? I've thought about drilling them out and retapping but that doesn't sound fun and may take a century to do. Also thought about trying to blast them off with the plasma cutter and use the clip/nut style thing. Any other good suggestions?

 

[1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2]

So I was thinking about this at work last night... If I were to drill the bolt, most standard screw extractors would turn counter clockwise, meaning I'd have to turn all of the rusty bolt through the hole. It would be much easier to turn the broken bolt clockwise (after a good soaking with Kroil), then I'd only have to turn the good threads of the bolt out the top. I think I may need to find a screw extractor for removing broken left hand thread bolts

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

I think I may need to find a screw extractor for removing broken left hand thread bolts

I can't remember, will the straight flute easy-outs bite in both directions?

 

[1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2]

I can't remember, will the straight flute easy-outs bite in both directions?

I looked into those online and some do and some don’t depending on if they have biting edges for each direction or only one direction. I’m in the garage now and just gonna see if I can get a hole centered and started in each bolt and go from there

 

[someotherguy]

IMO just go ahead bite the bullet and drop the control arm so you have access to the top side of the broken bolts, oil the crap out of them with penetrating oil of your choice, then see if you can bring them out with vise grips or by tacking a nut to the top of them.

You'll likely need the access anyway so you can weld new nuts to the arms after the fragile factory tack welded nuts break loose. This happened to me.

Richard

 

[1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2]

IMO just go ahead bite the bullet and drop the control arm so you have access to the top side of the broken bolts, oil the crap out of them with penetrating oil of your choice, then see if you can bring them out with vise grips or by tacking a nut to the top of them.

You'll likely need the access anyway so you can weld new nuts to the arms after the fragile factory tack welded nuts break loose. This happened to me.

Richard

Nailed it! I checked back in and your post is exactly what I’m doing

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[someotherguy]

Sometimes you just gotta say, F it

Richard

 

[1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2]

This is one of those times.

The lower ball joint boot is trash and the bushings are so-so.

Not long ago I ordered the cheapest option parts from Rock Auto for the tie rods, idler, and steering arm and they are garbage... poor fitting boots and not even greaseable, so since it needs and alignment now anyway I'm going with all Moog stuff.... F it

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

I seem to remember a thread not too long ago where Moog is getting bad reviews too.

 

[alpinecrick]

I seem to remember a thread not too long ago where Moog is getting bad reviews too.

That would be me........

On IFS 4wd trucks the Moog BJ's don't live long. Can't speak for 2wd's though.
When possible I'm all for MevoTech TX parts.