Brake pedal going to the floor

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gmfan454

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I just picked up a 97 Z-71 extended cab two days ago. The pedal seemed really mushy and travled far but it braked on day one. Day two, pedal went all the way to the floor and the Red Brake light came on. I popped off the resovoir cover and the fluid was empty. I noticed tho that the fluid I could see seemed to be really cloudy. Almost like when you pour cream into coffe. I filled the res back up and ran the truck and pumped the brake a few times but never got back much pedal at all but the res stayed full but really cloudy. Any idea what this could be?
 

19trax95

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Where did the fluid go though? It cant just dissappear. Did a line blow that you know of or a leak?

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gmfan454

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I cant see a leak and I didnt check the fluid level two days ago when I bought it. I will keep checking for leaks in back, around the calipers and MC but havent found one yet.
 

poncho62

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OK...you cant see a leak. There may be one or not...but either way, there is air in the lines now from the MC being empty. The brakes have to be bled. That should bring the pedal back. While bleeding them, you may find the leak
 

93SierraWT

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As stated above, you either have a leak or air in the lines. If it's a leak then you have both. Fill the reservoir and pump the brakes and check under the truck and all of your lines. If no leak is found then bleed the lines, refill and start from there.
 

RHamill

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With barely any fluid in the lines pumping brakes as of now wont show you the leak..

So do this

1. fill master cylinder
2. have someone pump brakes while you check for leaks
3. add more fluid because its going to go through the now empty lines first

Check the rear wheel cylinders, if they are leaking you wont notice as easy because the fluid is inside the rear brake assemblies.

You might as well adjust the rear brakes before you just slap the drums on, rear brakes out of adjustment causes the pedal to be low. but in your case you DEFINITELY have a leak, that 'brake' light comes on because of the fluid level sensor in the master cylinder
 

ouray19

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Hey Ryan, when you mention adjust the rear brakes, what's the best way to do that. I was told that my 89 has self adjusting rear brakes and to drive in reverse, slam on brakes and they adjust themselves. Is there another procedure?
 

great white

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If your reservoir went empty, you have introduced air into the master cylinder. Most effective way to fix that is to "bench bleed" it. Just because it says bench doesn't mean you can't do it on the truck. You just loop the out lines back into the reservoir.

This is not always practical on the truck though. You can keep pumping and try to push the air out of the calipers/slaves, but that is going to take forever. Literally, forever.

I would suggest you see if you can rent or borrow a reverse bleeder/pressure bleeder.

These connect to the bleed nipples on the calipers/slaves and push the fluid up to the reservoir. The big plus to these units is they push the air in the direction it wants to go (IE: up) and it's a constant push, not a pulse like pumping brakes. You have to keep draining the master so have something handy to suck the fluid out.

Your abs unit is going to be a treat if you have air in there. You can either buy/borrow a scan tool to cycle it, pay a shop to do it or get the system bled as best you can and go lock it up a couple times on a gravel road, then go home and bleed it again. Repeat gravel road as necessary.

Brake fluid eats paint, so be careful when handing it and bleeding. It will "squirt" at the exact wrong time. Have a bucket with soapy water and a rag handy if you're nervous about it.

If your fluid is milky/cloudy, you need to flush it all out anyways. It's past it's service life and is likely water contaminated. Brake fluid sucks water right out of the air. That's why you only use fluid from sealed containers.

Lastly: if the fluid level dropped, it went somewhere. This means you have a leak. The brake system is a "sealed" system and if the level is going down fast, it's leaking. The level will drop as the pads and shoes wear and the fluid takes up the resulting extra travel in the pistons, but a rapid drop is a leak. Usually culprits of a phantom leak is rear wheel cylinders (IE: the slaves). They leak into the drum, it combines with the lining dust and becomes a paste that stays in the drum. So it leaks, but you don't see it until you pop the drum off. Unless it's an "aggressive" leak that is. Then it runs down the backing plate and drips onto the wheel where it gets flung out over the tire surface.

You can stomp the pedal and crack the lines, but you are going to be doing that for days (and probably weeks after that) to get it all done....

Good luck.
 

gmfan454

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I wanted to provide an update. I replaced the master cylinder and bled the crap out of the lines. Brake pedal feels like a modern vehicle again. Thank you everyone for the responses.
 
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