Best setup for low-midrange torque on a stock 2 bolt main L05 88 350, with stock trans and converter?

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Slade88

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Hi everyone, after getting a much better job in the HVAC field I will have much more money to throw around, I’m no longer trying to build an engine with the least money possible. I originally wanted to use Vortec heads on my block but it sounds like afr enforcers are a straight upgrade

My truck is in great condition but it’s stock in every aspect except for the cam I put in it, which did practically nothing power wise (my mistake)

I’m only gonna be driving this truck on the street but I’d like to know the best head for low end mid range torque, I’d be very happy with a massive increase in torque since this truck spends most it’s time below 3 thou rpm.

I want tire shredding action haha!

I plan on getting my transmission (700r4) rebuilt to handle the power, as well as a different torque converter to boot a good time after I build the engine

I’m doing this build in stages: first the heads and intake, then swapping my tbi to carb, then installing the new cam, then getting the trans done up etc (due to costs)

The bottom end is bone stock and I’ve been freaking myself out reading forums

I just want to burn rubber and throw the old hag back into her seat!

I already have a Vortec high rise duel plane, but I will spare no expense on the heads and cam, so afr enforcers or Vortec?
 

Erik the Awful

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If you're wanting tire-shredding torque in the low to mid range, I'd stick with the Vortecs. Do a cleanup port job and run them.

I've been eyeballing the AFR Enforcers, but if I build an engine with them, I'm planning on building the whole engine to match. They'll accept up to .600" lift, and that means a lumpy horsepower cam, not a torque cam. I'm targeting at least 9.5:1 compression, probably closer to 10:1. I have a Victor Jr intake and a set of 1.75" primary headers stashed away and a set of Harland Sharp roller rockers. I'm strongly considering spending an extra grand on a lightened stroker kit over "just" a stroker kit. I want to be north of 500 hp with the capability to safely spin over 6500 rpm, which means 4-bolt mains are required. I think putting Enforcers on anything less is spending money to leave a lot on the table.

If you're planning on shredding tires, don't even bother with the 700R4. I built one up, and I'd trust it with WCJr's hot Vortec motor so long as I'm driving it nice. The junkyard 700 that's behind the engine right now is still holding up fine. As soon as you start talking Enforcers and burnouts a 700R4 is out of the question.

But I haven't actually made it that far yet, so right now it's just an opinion.
 

b454rat

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The biggest improvement I’ve done to a truck to get low end was Flotech headers and their Y-pipe. Already had a cat back, single 3” in dual 2 1/2” out muffler, no cat. It felt like a dropped a big block in place of the 350. At that point I think the truck had over 200k on a (AFAIK) stock motor. 90 GMC rcsb 2wd.
 

Schurkey

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I’m only gonna be driving this truck on the street but I’d like to know the best head for low end mid range torque, I’d be very happy with a massive increase in torque since this truck spends most it’s time below 3 thou rpm.

I want tire shredding action haha!

I plan on getting my transmission (700r4) rebuilt to handle the power, as well as a different torque converter to boot a good time after I build the engine

I’m doing this build in stages: first the heads and intake, then swapping my tbi to carb, then installing the new cam, then getting the trans done up etc (due to costs)

The bottom end is bone stock and I’ve been freaking myself out reading forums
I just want to burn rubber and throw the old hag back into her seat!

I already have a Vortec high rise duel plane, but I will spare no expense on the heads and cam, so afr enforcers or Vortec?
At low RPM, you don't need a high-rise manifold. I don't know anything about AFR Enforcer heads. Vortecs should be fine.

What you actually need is more displacement. A 3.75" stroke crank with associated pistons and rods, minimum, to create the typical "383" . An actual 400 cid would be even better. Some folks would suggest big-block, but you'd destroy the 700 transmission.

The only way to get around adding more displacement is to add a supercharger of some sort; or nitrous.

WHAT REAR GEARS do you have in that truck? Going from 3.42, for example, to 3.73 or deeper would make a big difference in the feel of the engine power.
 

Schurkey

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www.airflowresearch.com/cylinder-heads/enforcer-as-cast/


Comprised of four new budget friendly cylinder heads, these price conscience offerings...
Are these AFR's Chinese castings?

and
THESE PRODUCTS ARE ILLEGAL TO OPERATE ON ANY PUBLIC HIGHWAY. THIS MEANS ANY PUBLIC PAVED OR UNPAVED ROADWAY OR IN A PUBLIC PARK. THESE PRODUCTS ARE ONLY LEGAL IF USED ON A DEDICATED RACING VEHICLE. VIOLATION ARE SUBJECT TO A MAXIMUM PENALTY OF $37,500 PER VIOLATION PER VEHICLE, REVOCATION OF REGISTRATION BY DMV, LOSS OF USE ON PUBLIC RIGHT OF WAYS AND PROOF OF CORRECTION OF THE TAMPERING.

But that's OK, 195cc intake ports aren't what you want for low- and midrange torque anyway.
 

stutaeng

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My advice, although certainly not an expert: get rid of the 305/700R4.

Drop in a 350, 350 stroker (383) would be a great option. Or a big block. The more displacement you can get your hands on, the better.

Mate it to a TH400, and go do donuts. I would not mess around with the 700R4 if you want to do burnouts regularly. Those are decent for light duty, regular driving. Not for high torque and abuse. TH400 are simple, easy/cheap to rebuild, and so darn strong compared to the lighter transmission. There's a reason why folks run the TH400 on high power vehicles.
 
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Slade88

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My advice, although certainly not an expert: get rid of the 305/700R4.

Drop in a 350, 350 stroker (383) would be a great option. Or a big block. The more displacement you can get your hands on, the better.

Mate it to a TH400, and go do donuts. I would not mess around with the 700R4 if you want to do burnouts regularly. Those are decent for light duty, regular driving. Not for high torque and abuse. TH400 are simple, easy/cheap to rebuild, and so darn strong compared to the lighter transmission. There's a reason why folks run the TH400 on high power vehicles.
Already have a 350 in the truck, I will be ditching the 700R4 as soon as money allows it
 

Slade88

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At low RPM, you don't need a high-rise manifold. I don't know anything about AFR Enforcer heads. Vortecs should be fine.

What you actually need is more displacement. A 3.75" stroke crank with associated pistons and rods, minimum, to create the typical "383" . An actual 400 cid would be even better. Some folks would suggest big-block, but you'd destroy the 700 transmission.

The only way to get around adding more displacement is to add a supercharger of some sort; or nitrous.

WHAT REAR GEARS do you have in that truck? Going from 3.42, for example, to 3.73 or deeper would make a big difference in the feel of the engine power.
Is there a way to determine what rear gears I have via a casting number? I know they are completely stock that’s for sure
 

Schurkey

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First step is to look in the glove box, at the option code sticker.

GU6 = 3.42
GT4 = 3.73
G80 = locking differential

Point being, look at the "G" codes and see what's listed. Of course, the axle or the gears could have been changed since the vehicle was built. Removing the axle cover and actually inspecting the gears is the only foolproof way to know.
 

RichLo

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If your rebuilding your engine you can look into a 'Short Rod' kit. They are not as popular as long rod kits but they are out there if you look hard enough. Short connecting rod = Low RPM effieciency and torque. Long rod = High RPM HP.
 
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